When the opportunity arose to visit the magnificent Chobe National Park, world renowned for its diversity of game and abundant Elephant population, we jumped at the chance. The game viewing from the riverboats is legendary and this is one of the few places where one can confidently expect to view Lechwe and Puku antelope, which favor the floodplains and seasonal marshland areas in Botswana and Zambia.
It was partly-overcast and a warm 25 degrees as we disembarked from our British Airways flight at Victoria Falls International Airport. The flight from Johannesburg takes a comfortable hour and a half and as we came into land we glimpsed the magnificent “Mozi au Tunda” or as we commonly know it Victoria Falls.
Our transfer partner in Zimbabwe was Wild Horizons and their friendly driver Paul was waiting for us with a warm Zimbabwean welcome as we came through from customs into the arrivals hall.
We were soon driving through the lush bushveld terrain en route to Victoria Falls and then onto Kazungula, the Botswana border, where we cleared immigration and customs 50 minutes later.
We then walked across the border to our awaiting African Odyssey transfer. The drive to Kasane is a mere 15 minutes from the border and along the way we were entertained with sightings of Green Pigeon and Bluecheeked Bee Eater as well as several herds of Impala. Our guide Richard went to great lengths to tell us about his wonderful country and all the activities that we could expect to participate in.
Botswana Is often described as one of the last unspoiled areas of Africa. It is a land of contrasts, with two thirds of the country occupied by the Kgadikgadi, a vast semi-desert area where stunted trees and scattered bushveld survive in an often hostile environment. In the northeast the higher rainfall supports stretches of deciduous forest and this is where the Chobe National Park is situated.
Kasane is a typical African village with a Spar, several Bureau de Change, some shops and two restaurants. The restaurants are interestingly called The Old Bank and the Old House. No doubt named after their previous occupants. There are also several luxury game lodges strategically positioned along the Chobe Riverbank.
Driving into Chobe Marina Lodge, with its arched entrance, magnificent thatch roof and lush tropical vegetation we could hardly wait to get our first glimpse of the legendary Chobe River.
Check in was friendly and efficient and as soon as our bags were stored in our spacious room we hurried down past the pool deck, onto a viewing deck overlooking the river.
The Chobe River has its source in Angola and is a magnificent body of water, full of the famous Tiger fish, Vundu Barble as well as tasty Bream and Three Spot Talapia. The Chobe converges with the mighty Zambezi close to Kasungula, where we entered the country, and where Botswana, Zambia and Namibia meet. Both rivers flood every year in March and April, three months after the heavy rains at their source in the mountains of central Angola.
It was now 3pm and as we looked over the river a flat-decked riverboat filled with guests was just leaving the jetty on the afternoon river safari. We decided that tomorrow we would be joining them and gravitated to the pool bar to enjoy a few of the local St Louis beers. The beer is pale in color and served ice cold in frosted glasses they were made extra enjoyable by the calls of Fish Eagle and Kingfisher across the river. What better way to start our weeklong adventure?
As the sun began to descend on the Namibian side of the river we positioned ourselves on the deck outside the Riverside bar and watched the sun set. What a magnificent spectacle this is. The sunsets although different every evening, are truly spectacular. The reflection on the mirrored surface of the river and the lightning far away over Namibia adds additional drama to the scene. One can easily be absorbed into the sheer splendor of the occasion and lose oneself with thoughts of Africa and how you would be happy to spend the remainder of your life lost in this soul rejuvenating experience.
CHOBE MARINA LODGE
The lodge is a landmark wood and thatch structure, double story, with an imposing double volume reception area and viewing decks overlooking the river all around. Commissioner’s restaurant, as well as several well-appointed conference rooms, dominates the top level. There are two bars. The pool bar opens at 10am and remains open until the Riverside bar opens at 4pm. Both are well stocked and staffed by competent, friendly and well-trained barmen. A light lunch menu is available at the pool or a buffet spread can be enjoyed in the Mokoros restaurant. This is particularly popular with visiting tour groups returning from the morning river safari at around midday.
Dinner is served in either the elegant Commissioner’s restaurant on the upper deck, where a different a’ la Carte menu is served every evening, or in the Mokoros restaurant named after the hollowed out tree trunks that the locals fashion into canoes. The Mokoros serves a Pan African buffet with a variety of delicious starters and main courses including tender Botswana steaks cooked to order over an open Braai. The selection of deserts is outstanding if you have space after the sumptuous main course.
We dined at both and the food is excellent. However the ultimate dining experience is to be had on the open deck under the stars and overlooking the river. The staff will gladly set a private dinner table with your choice of menu and the two evenings that we enjoyed in this manner will never be forgotten. Not only because the meal was so good, but also, there cannot be a better venue in Africa to dine under the stars and toast the fabulous sunset. The lodge has a comprehensive wine list of South African wines and also serves a very good wine by the glass. For a night cap it’s back to the Riverside bar and then tummy full and bone weary off to bed.
Our accommodation at Chobe Marina Lodge was both spacious and functional with a private deck to relax on and admire the view, mini bar fridge and king size bed sheathed in a protective crisp white mosquito net to keep out those irritating culicidae. The bathroom is well appointed with a glass shower, toilet and vanity with a hand painted basin reflecting the local colors and artwork. There is also a TV in the room with a variety of channels, although we never turned it on. To ensure a good nights sleep the ultimate luxury in Africa……whisper quiet air conditioning.
If one is not setting off on the 6am game drive to Chobe National Park, then a leisurely breakfast can be enjoyed from 7am until 10am. Breakfast is buffet style with eggs to order and is served either in the Mokoros restaurant or on its deck overlooking a beautiful waterfall that cascades under the deck and into a pond, before flowing down to the river below.
During one breakfast we were visited by a troop of Vervet Monkeys, keen to steal a slice of toast or tidbit off the table of an unsuspecting guest. I must add, much to the annoyance of the staff. One was even so bold as to throw the indigenous leaves and flowers out of a table vase and proceeded to drink the water. Sitting on the table as if it had been especially reserved for his visit. In this position it is obvious why they are commonly know as blue monkeys. He had bright blue oversized testes, indeed a tribute to his manhood. Sadly one of the young Vervets had his arm amputated at the wrist. One can only ponder how this misfortune could have happened, perhaps a Crocodile or a poacher’s snare. However I am glad to report that his wound had long ago healed and despite his handicap he managed remarkably well. Jumping from branch to branch as only the incredibly agile Vervet’s can do. I am told that the lodge-staff have affectionately named him Tripod.
A Giant Kingfisher, who used the opportunity to dry off under the canopy of a wild fig, always keeping an eye out for a small fish below, also regularly visited us. We also saw an African Finfoot in the pond and every morning were joined by three Spotted Necked Otters that swam over from the Namibian side of the river to fish in the inlet below the waterfall. They masterfully herded the Three Spot Talapia into the shallows and never went hungry.
Marina Lodge boasts a beautiful swimming pool that deceivingly looks as though it drops off the rim straight into the river below, as well as a kiddie’s pool for the youngsters. This is where the guests while away the hours, reading a book, soaking up the sunshine, chatting to one another or just sitting and staring out over the river during the warmer hours of the day. Once again there are the locals in the form of two Water Monitors that either sun themselves nearby, or slither between the tables, their long fork tongues seeking out any scrap of food that might have fallen off a plate. We promptly named them Larry and Junior - the Pool Lizards.
ACTIVITIES
African Odyssey provides a wide range of top class activities for guests. These include: morning and afternoon game drives in open 4x4 vehicles; morning and afternoon river safaris; Tiger fishing on the river; day trips to Victoria Falls, 70km away where one can white water raft or for the brave of heart, Bungi Jump from the bridge over the Zambezi gorge.
One can also self drive in the Chobe National Park (4x4 only) or visit the ferry which links Botswana, Namibia and Zambia at Kazungulu. There are also the Magadikgadi saltpans, a day trip away, where one can view thousands of Flamingo or simply drive to the Namibian border at Ngoma Bridge on the tarred road through the park where there is every likelihood of sighting herds of Elephant grazing along the roadside. There is also the nearby Kasane Forest Reserve to be explored.
We were fortunate enough to enjoy a morning game drive into the Chobe National Park where we sighted a pride of seven Lion lazing in the morning light, two of them sporting tracking collars to monitor their movement. We were also privileged enough to spent the best part of an hour photographing a young Lioness playing with her solitary six-week old cub. Less than 20 meters away. There were also sightings of Letchwe, Puku, abundant Elephant, Crocodile, Hippo and Fish Eagle as well as Warthog, Kudu, Slender Tail Mongoose and the list of bird life is endless. I can honestly say that I have never seen so much game in such a short space of time.
However in my opinion the ultimate game viewing experience is on the river safari. We did two of these and were richly rewarded both times with totally different experiences. The Elephant, Hippo and Crocs are amazingly comfortable with the riverboats and allowed our experienced guide and driver to get within meters of them. So close in fact that my 300mm camera lens was way too long and I had to zoom down to 70-200mm.
We spent some time observing a pod of Hippo with several babies and a magnificent old bull Elephant with both tusks broken off that swam to an island within meters of our boat. We also observed a young male Elephant repeatedly charging a group of male Kudu, much to their bemusement and our enjoyment. Apart from the Elle’s the highlight for me was the majesty of the Fish Eagles. Perched on dead tree trunks along the river, or sitting on the waters edge they are one of Africa’s greatest raptors and all day long one could hear their unmistakable call reverberating up the river as they fished.
Botswana received its independence in September 1966. The capital is Gaberone, which is said to be one of Africa’s fastest growing cities. The Okavango Delta, together with the game reserves on the country’s northern border, provides most of Botswana’s tourist potential. The people are friendly and certainly the staff at Chobe Marina Lodge could not do enough to please. All the excursions operated by African Odyssey are professionally run with great care taken for safety and guest comfort. Prices are affordable even though the Botswana Pula is stronger than the SA Rand.
It was with a heavy heart that we reluctantly departed Chobe, on our way back to Victoria Falls for the ultimate adrenalin rush, the infamous Bungi jump.
However plans are already being made for a trip back to the Delta with a mandatory few days stop off at Chobe Marina Lodge. With the perfect mix of peace and tranquility and exceptional game and bird viewing opportunities, Chobe is indeed one of Africa’s last unspoiled havens and Marina Lodge and the fabulous management and staff, our home away from home.
TRAVEL INFO
Chobe is a malaria area and it is advisable to consult your family practitioner before traveling to the region. Be sure to pack some Peaceful Sleep or Tabard as Mosquitoes are always present in the evenings.
While the family sedan is ideal for the tarred roads (look out for potholes), if you are planning to venture into the parks a 4x4 is essential, as many of the dirt roads consist of thick river sand.
The Spar at Kasane is well stocked with all the provisions you might require and there is also a Bureau de Change opposite the entrance.
Chobe Marina Lodge has a curio shop where one can purchase gifts and curios. The African Odyssey office next door will efficiently handle both your transfers and any activities that you might wish to partake in.
The Lodge accepts all major credit cards. The local currency is the Botswana Pula.
The bird life is exceptional and one needs to take along a good birding reference book to appreciate the sheer abundance of bird life.
HOW TO GET THERE
There are scheduled SAA and British Airways flights daily into Victoria Falls out of Johannesburg International Airport, or one can fly directly to Kasane with Air Botswana from Johannesburg.
CHOBE MARINA LODGE
President Avenue, Chobe River Kasane, Private Bag K83, Kasane, Botswana. TEL: +267 625 2221. FAX: +267 625 2224. EMAIL: res1@chobemarinalodge.com WEBSITE: www.chobemarinalodge.com
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