DURBAN TO KHUMAGA – OUR SECOND TRIP JOURNAL

It was this trip where our journal keeping became even more a daily part of our lives. Writing the journal was a wonderful end to the day, sitting round the campfire and recounting the day’s events.

It was also this trip that developed a new found respect and love between Gav and I.

Read on to discover why!

We departed Durban, KZN on our expedition into the unknown at around 2pm on a sunny January afternoon (Expedition is not a loosely used word, as it was truly a leap into the Botswana UNKNOWN).

Driving through the night, a trip that lasted 26 long hrs, it really helped having two drivers and loads of coffee. The long hours of driving really became worthwhile when at sunrise we saw the full moon behind us setting and the sun rising in front.. (I no longer talk about the sun rising and setting anymore, after a talk held by the wonderful Dr Ian McCullum, who put into perspective, that it is the earth’s spin and tilt that result in this magnificent experience).

We digress though…..

We arrived at the Botswana border post at 6h30 the following morning. Our route was then to Gaberone and then via Mahalapye, Palapye, Soroye, Orapa, Mapidi and Raakops to Khumaga.

Raakops was the last chance to refuel before Maun and was my first introduction to the true African ‘long drop’. To those who have never encountered “the black hole”, this is it. It is a concrete block with a hole in it. A very deep hole, ok for the guys not so ok for girls. Problem is that when the light is shut off the flies at the bottom panic and head for the only exit, right between your legs. The flies are large in Botswana. Say no more.


KHUMAGA

We finally arrived at Khumaga at 17h00 (after having travelled for more than a day). Our campsite was at a place called “Xwaraga” campsite 5 under a huge Buffalo Thorn tree – I have no record of the meaning of Xwaraga – maybe someone reading this blog can assist with its’ meaning.



We now had limited time to set up camp. Having no experience in putting up our brand new tent with Chinese instructions, this was sure to be an adventure in itself.

True to form the tent became a major challenge and we reckoned that after this exercise we could enter the Amazing Race, considering we had not annihilated one another while arguing about which pole went where.

Our campsite was under this magnificent Buffalo Thorn tree which provided much needed shade during the hot hours of the day but made walking around without shoes a painful experience. Eventually we were all set up and after a good few glasses of red vino, had a comfortable first nights sleep in the Botswana bush.



THE INTREPID CAMPERS

The intrepid campers awoke to a beautiful sunny day, and after our first square cooked meal in 3 days, felt ready to conquer the erecting of the gazebo – which was at least colour-coded. Problem though Gav is quite colour-blind and I am geometrically disadvantaged. The poles all were colour-coded but all different lengths and angles. Anyway, this is when our “Amazing Race” partnership came into play, eventually getting the damn thing up. We were to be very grateful for the extra shade this gave us. I must say for “appie's” our campsite was pretty organised.




The interesting part of this trip was that none of our friends could believed that I would go camping, being quite a girly girl, boy were they in for a surprise. Stand back for Adventure Barbie.

Close to our camp site was a Purple-Pod Termanelia. The pods are a favoured food of a lot of birds and Squirrels too. We watched one day as a Glossy Starling chased a Squirrel in and out of three different trees before he escaped into a hole. The proverbial “nut-flasher was in trouble again.

The cheeky Glossy Starling even chased a Tree Monitor (Legevaan) – gee, it seemed that everyone was chasing everyone. Maybe we should be chasing one another round the tent. No, wait it may just collapse.

Above us were several Buffalo Weavers that chattered all day as they went about their nest maintenance, dropping thorny twigs all over the place.

The second night we had heard this grunting noise at about 3am and thought there were Wart Hogs outside, strangely though they would have to be winged Hogs as the noise was coming from above. We found the grunter bird in our bird book. It turned out to be a Verreaux (Giant) Eagle Owl.




I will list the other varied bird and animal life one is likely to see at Khumaga:-

• Grey (Turaco) Lourie
• Southern Yellowbilled Hornbill. The male was feeding the female. The breeding pair closes the female into a hole in the tree and seals it, leaving a tiny hole to feed her. The male then feeds her and later the chicks as well, until she is ready to come out. This is trust in its truest form.
• Swainson’s Spur Fowl
• Cardinal Woodpecker
• Redbilled Hornbill
• African Mourning Dove (another sound that will always remind me of the bush- (‘coooc-currr’ coooc-currr)
• Leopard Tortoise
• Threadwing/Lacewing - Ant-Lion

It was sundowner time and I put my watch away, so the only clue to the time was the movement of the sun.




The ‘Makgadikgadi birds’ (Buffalo Weavers) were really being treated to a wealth of nick-names. Khumaga is situated near the Makgadikgadi Pans and the sound of the Weavers really sounded like this, makgadi gadi, makgadi gadi all day long. They really had the ability to drive one crazy, what with their incessant din and their tent splotching. Hey! We want to be in the bush but we do not want the bush near us – COME ON!


A CLOSE CALL

I had gone into the tent to get a jacket or something, when SUDDENLY there was a FRANTIC call from outside – KAR, KAR!!!! Then I had Gav next to me saying there were three Lionesses outside +-15m away. (You must understand that in Botswana there are no fences around the campsites, that’s why you are warned not to wander around at night).

There were three Lionesses that we could see (the scary bit is always those that can’t be seen). They lay down and just checked us out, probably thinking - hmm, hmm. We managed to grab the camera which was on a tripod some way away and they lay there, until it was dark.

We shone the high power torch on them to get a photo. I being the “appie” got this wonderful task. In the pitch dark, with one light for miles around, I had ten gazillion insects bombarding me, Gavin shouting at me to keep the light still, Ja Boet, you try this with insects in your hair, up your nose etc. It was worth every “gogga” (SA for unknown creepy crawlies) to have these magnificent animals so near even though the pics were not very good.




We now laugh about the incident!

The next day we went to view the lion tracks, the size of a man’s hand and a bit wider.




While tracking the Lions down the sandy road we saw a Black Mamba (one of our most poisonous snakes in Africa). The only reason we became aware of the Mamba was because, the Starlings as usual were dive bombing him. (Bird alarm calls are great indicators of predators in the area).

The Mamba was rearing up as the Starlings bombarded him, this became too much for him and he eventually slithered off into the thick bush, the Starlings making sure everyone knew where the danger was.

We only found out later that our snake pal had visited our camp-site when we saw his tracks in the soft sand.


OTHER SIGHTINGS AND EVENTS

We were visited by Pat the ranger, greeted him in Swahili. They are so appreciative when you try and speak their language no matter how badly.

Some of the birds we saw around our campsite:

• Redbilled Francolin (the male has spurs on his feet).
• Identified the tseep-tseep as the Yellow Wagtail.
• Meyer’s Parrot with a chee-chee call in the tree above.
• Burchell’s Starling.
• African Pied Wagtail.

One other lesson learnt, is that nature comes to you, there is no need to chase after it!



We drove to Makgadikgadi Game Reserve in an attempt to see the pans but petrol limitations prevented us from going too far. I had my first experience at being shocked by a game fence while opening an electrified gate into the park– believe me you do not want to feel that shock – YEAH I know, funny if it’s not you!

Tomorrow we are off to the Okavango Delta to fulfil a lifelong dream.

MAUN AND THE DELTA

Thank goodness we had the Garmin to find the airport. There are no sign posts until you can see the airport in front of you. We were met there by the Drifters manager Eric and Shaku who was to accompany us and be our own personal guide in the Delta.

We met our pilot Matt and boarded the six seated Cessna to fly from Maun into the Delta. I noted that all the bush pilots operating out of Maun seemed to be in their twenties or so. However what they lacked in age they made up for in flying experience.

We were flown into Pom-Pom (translated – The Place of Mosquitoes – TRUE) international airport. I say this with great jest, as the runway is probably the length of a standard ruler, about as wide and sand. Matt let the wheels down and the plane hit ground and sharply braked stopping within the ruler length – just!



MOKORO TRIP TO BAOBAB ISLAND

A 45min drive on the back of a game viewer took us from Pom Pom to the Mokoro Port then an hour Mokoro trip to Baobab Island. It was summer, so the water was quite high resulting in our having to carry all our gear for about a kilometre to the campsite.




This area is a bird sanctuary so we were there more for the birding than the game.

• Spurwing Geese
• African Darter
• Swamp Boubou
• Purple Heron
• Little Egret
• Shaft-Tailed Whydah
• Redbilled Firefinch
• Blue Waxbill
• African Paradise Flycatcher
• Hamerkop
• Woodland Kingfisher
• African Fish Eagle
• Pels Fishing Owl
• Kurrichane Thrush
• Marabou Stork
• Eastern White Pelican
• Pinkbacked Pelican



Not forgetting:

• Sausage tree
• Water Lilly (stunning floating flowers some that flower in the day and others that flower at night)
• Water Lettuce – very pretty
• Papyrus grass all around
• Squirrels galore
• Lechwe (an antelope found in flood plains)

Make sure you carry a good bird book as there is an abundance of bird life.

THE CAMPSITE ON BAOBAB ISLAND

We arrived around midday with the temperature up in the forties. Once we settled in and unpacked and made our bed it was time for lunch. Shaku knocked together a very welcomed and tasty Tuna Salad and finally some ice-cold water. How is it that simple food always tastes better in the bush and when you are thirsty water tastes so sweet.

After lunch Shaku showed us around the camp. There was a bucket shower – literally as the name implies, it is a bucket suspended on a rope with a shower nozzle underneath and a tap. All this in an enclosed shower tent. This was a pure luxury as the bucket could be filled with water heated on the fire – a girl needs her luxuries outdoors.



There was really someone upstairs looking after me. The long drop was a camping toilet with a seat. Gavin referred to this as a heated toilet seat because it was behind a bush, but in the sun. If the toilet was occupied the spade and toilet roll propped against a tree at the campsite would be missing – make sure you take the spade, you need it to throw some sand on your business to keep the flies away!



At this point I must compliment Drifters on their amazing service. You have to understand that to get to Maun was a one hour Mokoro trip, forty five minutes on a vehicle and then a twenty minute flight. Yet every day we had fresh Ice, salad, wine and beer. Shaku would radio Maun in the evenings and before lunch the next day fresh provisions would arrive. This is an amazing accomplishment considering the logistics involved.

The camp consisted of tent two sleeper tents, with a central mess tent. The mess tent also served as a kitchen. Shaku was really organised and everything had its place.



When we arrived he asked us what we liked to eat. Gav, always affable, said anything although I did hear him say a few bottles of wine would be good. Madam here on the other hand, said as long as there was always fresh salad and plenty of ice I would be really pleased.

Shaku is an amazing person who could not do enough to ensure that we enjoyed our adventure. He was born in the Delta and knew every sound, plant and animal. The lugging of our reference books became so special, as he spent hours studying them in order to learn the English names, particularly the new bird names.



We chose the second tent as it was in the shade. You want to get any shade possible in temperatures of 45 degrees centigrade and more.

We were scheduled to take a trip up the Delta in the Mokoro late in the afternoon so we had a few hours to kill. Shaku suggested that we go for a swim in the Delta, so off we went. The water was crystal clear, a golden colour and so refreshingly cool.



At 4pm we set off on our trip and had sundowners aboard the Mokoro as Shaku guided us with a long pole through the channels in the reeds. (“Driving” the Mokoro was not easy, as I was to discover later).

As always, the photographer does not appear in many photographs, but we were there to fulfil one of Gav’s greatest dreams – to visit the Okavango Delta.



THE BUSHWALK

We awoke bright and fresh to go on our bush stroll, yeah sure, it became a five hour trek.

It was well worth the effort though. Shaku took us to a ‘fresh’ day or two old Giraffe kill. The pride of Lion had heard us coming and moved off but you could smell the cat urine. Very strong but not as strong as the smell of the rotting Giraffe.

We came across some of the tallest ant-hills I have ever seen.



It was passed midday when we got back to the river. The water in the Delta is so clean one can drink it without fear. We duly did as our water bottles were empty by this stage.



A few of our sitings along the way were:-

• Black Crake. They sound like they are in their morning meeting – babble babble.
• Green Pigeon
• White Back and Hooded Vultures near the kill.
• Crested Barbet, we refer to them as Cresties
• Crested Francolin
• Brownhooded Kingfisher
• Saddlebilled Stork
• Pied Kingfisher



Shaku pointed out trees and herbs.

• Wild Basil and Sage
• Silver Termanalia – which is used to make the Makoro poles from
• Knob Thorn tree
• Jackleberry tree
• Mopani – a delicacy which the Elephant love, the leaf is actually shaped like a butterfly or elephant’s ears
• Small Sour Plum – which is edible but as the name implies very sour
• Russet Bush Willow – another Ellie delicacy
• Sausage or Makoro trees, used for Makoro making, (the only form of transport in the Delta), one tree is used per Makoro but they last forever. The government is now insisting that people use Fiberglass Mokoro’s. Only those who live in the Delta may cut down the Sausage Trees.
• The Lala Palm, apparently the fruit has to pass through an Elephant to fertilise it. The locals use the sap to make beer. Lala means sleep, maybe after too much beer.


Arrived back to a Delta swim in the golden metse (water). Back at camp was a really rowdy bunch that were staying only one night, more there to have a party than to appreciate a wonder of the world, which can be seen from outer-space. Think the social butterfly is becoming a socio – path dragon fly, I much prefer this (The dragonfly has become one of my favourite winged friends).




BIRD SIGHTINGS

• Lilacbreasted Roller – Botswana’s national bird
• Redbilled Woodhoopoe
• Cape Turtle Dove
• Bluecheeked Bee Eater
• Glossy Starling
• Redbilled Firefinch
• Southern Black Tit
• Brown Firefinch
• Male Cardinal Woodpecker
• Kurrichane Thrush
• Blackcollared Barbet
• Bearded Woodpecker
• Jameson’s Firefinch

Many Dragonfly round the camp, who really seemed to take a fancy to me.




MAKORO LESSONS

Another Makoro lesson, eventually getting the hang of it, but if there was a driver’s test would not pass. Gavin started with the name Makoro Queen.



Thank goodness for the cool water of the Delta, the heat was sweltering; staying in the water you ironically get goose bumps, after an hour or two.




IN SEARCH OF THE PEL’S FISHING OWL

Shaku took us on a Makoro trip to near the Mokoro Port looking for the elusive Pel’s Fishing Owl. I think one of the most beautiful of the owls.

We did not find the elusive Mr Pel’s, but, we did see the little Painted Tree Frog, hardly larger than a thumbnail.

Headed back to camp for Guy’s (the other guide who had arrived) Stroganoff a’la Delta. I told Shaku that part of our trip was that he had to have a whole chilli. Shaku, the cheat, pretended to take a bite and in his feigned agony tossed the chilli. Oh well, it is an acquired taste. The longer one eats these fiery ones, the hotter one can go!

After dinner we thought we had lost a member of the camp, but it turned out that he had just gone for an extended moonlit toilet experience.

Thanks to Shaku we did find the Pel’s. Read on.




HEAVY-HEARTED DEPARTURE

Gav and I got up really early to prepare for our sad departure to Maun

One of the guides “Fly” took our luggage – did not get to find out the origins behind this nickname.

Now comes the real surprise! Shaku had sent out a scout, Carlos to look for the Pel’s Fishing Owl. He was determined to find one before we left.

En route we passed a “channel hopping, swimming Chameleon”. Quite the Olympic swimmer.



We stopped off at “Baboon Island”, as Shaku wanted to check whether he could spot the Pell’s. He and Gavin set off to find Carlos.

I opted to “guard” the Makoro, as I was feeling quite heavy-hearted at our imminent departure.

Soon thereafter I heard this frantic calling from Shaku “Karen, Karen!” My word what had happened to Gavin? I think I walked on water to get off the Makoro.

BUT!!!! They had found the Legendary Pel’s! A beauty with B…..I……G eyes, which most of the pictures in the birding books do not do justice to. He was sitting very quietly and allowed us to walk around underneath his tree with no problem. Shaku told us that it was because there was a Fish Eagle sitting in a tree across the river. They are both fish hunters and therefore natural enemies, so if the Pel’s moved then the Fish Eagle would attack him.



What a finish to an awesomely amazing trip!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Arrived at the airfield and our plane arrived promptly at 10h00, unlike our good old SAA!


During the flight we saw a herd of Ellie’s – much to Shaku’s relief, as one of the requirements was to see my beloved elephant. Boy was this man out to please, any takers ladies?

Flew over dozens of tin roof houses – in that heat they must really stew.

Met at the airport, by Eric from Drifters – what a professional, well run company. They are eco friendly, constantly moving their camps, so as not to impact on any area.


Read on to find out about how we got stuck in the mud on the road from Maun to Savuti……

MAUN TO SAVUTI AND KASANE - JOURNAL

Maun to Savuti Road Trip

This area has made such an impression on us, that we named our puppy, Savuti, after it and he is just wonderful, a well chosen name that he is so proud to carry!

The road started off relatively A ok! It then got progressively worse (a very mild term).

It is here that I must interject, with the fact that we were in a Tucson, just us and the wild. Sometimes too much knowledge is not good, in this instance; it was balls to the wall!

We ignored the rules about travelling in convoy. But the Tucson never let us down, bar for the one episode I will relate shortly.

One thing this trip was teaching us was that distances in the bush do not equate to distances on a map. Try quadrupling them and you may come close. We hit a branch of Ironwood (felt like a tree) and managed to losen part of the driveshaft bracket – yeah guys – I was getting quite good with the mechanics of a vehicle.

We sat on the side of the road awaiting rescue – from who knows who? Not one to sit around I unpacked and repacked the vehicle about ten times, much to Gav’s chagrin.

E….V..E..N..T..U..A..L..L..Y!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Along came a cruiser full of local inhabitants – they, if not their vehicle already tanked and full up!

The local “Bush Mechanic” and his four pound hammer (always carry one of these, it sorts out a multitude of problems) soon sorted our problem out! With one less bottle of Jack Daniels and a packet of liquorice allsorts we set forth to Savuti via South Gate.

Here I re-iterate about the distances, a three hour drive turned into six hours. Getting to the gate we asked the park attendant how good the roads were. He said just fine, they had been graded (when 10yrs ago?)

You cannot describe just how bad the non-existent roads were, bearing in mind that it was near the end of the rainy season.

The so-called Cotton Soil, slippery as an ice-rink, should be called Black Slime Mud. Did I say END of the rainy season? We then hear thunder and see lightning all around and it starts to rain.
At this point Gav take the wrong track and we get stuck in the mud. Time to dig us out. We are now knee deep in the gunk (at least Gav was, I had slipped on my nana and looked like a mud wrestler, sense of humour dissipating very quickly)

It was here we saw the most amazing light for photographers, we thought there was no subject to photograph, forgetting we could be the subject. ALWAYS have your camera ready, no matter what!

Gav, my ever resourceful hero got us out. We then drive on gunning through certain areas, and in others making our own road.

By this time it is getting dark, we are covered in mud, this road that was not a road was hard going, but thinking things cannot get worse we continue! Proverbial last words!

We then hit the LAKES, headlights under water, everything going black – submarine we are not – we got through – GO Tucson!

During the journey we saw, in the twilight, a herd of my beloved Elephants, 2 prides of Lion – one decided to do a mock charge, 3 x Bateared Fox and a Striped Polecat.

It sounds really like a well worn phrase, but, everything does happen for a reason, if all the events had not occurred we would never have seen these night-time visitors.

By now it is 21h00 and we meet up with a parks board vehicle, the driver says only 15km’s to camp. Never believe them – 15km’s took us 1hr.

Arrived at camp site wet and muddy, still having to set up the tent. “Stuff” the tent I was ready to sleep in the car. Anyway clearly this was not to happen. After a beer and a hot shower, yes hot, we could conquer the world.

Plenty of Spotted hyena round camp, heard them all night but never the less, slept like a log!


DR. DOOLITTLE I PRESUME

Awakened at 6am to the love of my life, surrounded by Francolin, Squirrels, Red and Yellowbilled Hornbill, Starlings, Sparrows, and Bradfield’s Hornbill. They were all looking for some breakfast.

It was a direct scene from Dr. Doolittle. We could not believe how accustomed they were to humans, even eating from your hand.

In retrospect this area demanded a few days to visit not an overnight stay.

According to local authority, the road to Kasane was fine, sure, we new exactly what that meant.

We were met with sand and lakes (no exaggeration, ok maybe a wee bit, but just).

The poor Tucson has layers of silver, black and white, less a number plate, left somewhere in the depths of a lake somewhere.

We saw, on the plus side, Black-Backed Jackal who was stalking some Blacksmith Plovers, Knob-Billed Duck, and Ostrich. Zeb’s, Impala and Ellies.

Once again if going to Savuti spend some time in this beautiful, wondrous place.

A 4hr trip to Kasane along very sandy roads – not for the faint-hearted!


CHOBE/KASANE

Finally we arrived at the Lodge in Kasane. At last a bit of luxury, along the magnificent Chobe River. We sat ourselves down and had one (or two) of the local beers – St. Louis – have to support the locals after all.

I read such a true statement in one of my journals: “There are adventurers, there are tourists and then there are day trippers”.

The next day was spent lazing at the pool, very little bird-life, the consensus being, the insecticide being sprayed for the mosquitoes. This is so true, in our Kloof garden we do not use insecticides and the birdlife (and insect life) is prolific as a result.

That afternoon we went for a river-cruise, the best way to spot game. Here’s a list for the birders:-

• Whitefaced Duck
• Great White Egret
• African Jacana
• African Darter
• Reed Cormorant
• Pied Kingfisher
• Whitefronted Bee-Eater
• Spurwing Geese
• Little Sparrowhawk
• Blacksmith Lapwing (Plover)

We had an amazing siting of a leopard in broad daylight. Soon after she showed herself she disappeared into the brush.

• Two really young bull Ellies, jousting with one another. No doubt training for the real thing
• Lion
• Kudu
• Impala
• Buffalo
• Hippo

That night we were treated to a sunset dinner, on the deck, just the two of us. How one’s heart swells to be able to share this with the love of your life.

Sitting at breakfast we saw:-

• Heuglin’s Robin
• Trumpeter Hornbill
• Brownhooded Kingfisher
• Senegal Coucal
• Larry the lounge/pool lizard
• Banded Mongoose family “jolling” (playing and having fun) on the lawns

We had dinner on the terrace, with blood-sucking vampire mosquitoes.

AMAZING SUNSET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Tomorrow we drive on the tarred road to Nata Bird Sanctuary.