We finish packing all our camping gear, lots of bottled water, some wine and our trusty portable fridge, full of food, at around ten in the morning. The weather is perfect, hot, but a bit of cloud around to cut the glare. We are going to be thankful for the air-conditioning in the car though. By ten thirty we are on our way to Ndumo, in Northern Kwa-Zulu-Natal.
Ndumo is a Game Reserve and a well known ‘birding spot’ on the border of Southern Mozambique and Northern KZN. The drive will take us around four hours, with all but the last 20km on tar.
We travel past the town of Jozini after crossing the Jozini Dam wall, after which the road is full of deep pot-holes. Another 60km of this and then the tar gives way to a dirt road for the final leg. You have to drive slowly and carefully around the pot-holes but the dirt road is not too bad as it has been graded recently. However it is bone dry and there is a lot of dust when you are behind another vehicle.
Once at the camp we check in at reception, find our chalet and unpack what we need for the next three nights.
It is getting late and we want to catch the magic golden light so we head down to the Ezulwini Hide, which overlooks the Nyanithi Pan. The hide is well constructed, near to the pan and there is an abundance of water birds flying in and out with a setting sun as a backdrop.
From the hide we saw:-
• Yellow-billed Stork
• Black Egret
• Little Egret
• Grey Heron
• Spoonbills
• Avocet
On the drive back, we were very excited to see, for the first time, a Palm-Nut Vulture. It was sitting on the dead branch of an old Leadwood tree, against an aquamarine blue sky. We love the outdoors because your senses become so clear and amplified and the majesty of this rare Vulture whose habitat is limited to its primary food, the fruit of the Kosi Palm, was a very special occasion and a great start to our trip.
NDUMO CAMP
Ndumo Camp is run by Ezemvelo Wildlife and is well laid out, comfortable and very clean. The chalets are really nice, with their own kitchen nook, hotplate, kettle, sink and microwave. They are fully air-conditioned and have a patio with table and chairs and braai outside. (We stayed in No.3).
The only down side is that the units do not have their own bathrooms or toilet. But there are good ablution facilities and a laundry, all impeccably clean and close by.
The camp boasts a large swimming pool and an on-site chef in the communal kitchen and dining area, who will cook for you. You just provide the ingredients and tell him what you want done with them.
Our housekeeper is Thembisa. She cleans the chalet, makes the beds and washes the dishes every morning. She is chatty, has a willing smile and has lived in the area all her life and so she is also a wealth of local information.
We found that the best time to utilize the ablution facilities is between 09h00 and 15h00 when there are not a lot of people around. Bearing in mind that it is two days to New Year and the chalets and camp sites are all full.
Karen managed to photograph a Swallow-Tailed Emperor Moth on the wall of the ablution, early one morning. It had been drawn to the lights during the night but seconds later a Woodland Kingfisher swooped in and with a shrill kri-trrrrrrr it was devoured as the Kingfisher perched on the branch of a nearby tree. Not all Kingfishers eat fish.
A Lesser Striped Swallow was nesting under the thatch on the patio of our chalet. The male would swoop through but would only go to the nest when we were away or sitting very quietly.
NEW YEAR!
Early in the evening a party began in the Boma, attended by a large group of people that were staying in the campsites. We celebrated the New Year by playing hand-ball and a board game on our patio while cooking a late dinner and having a ‘few’ glasses of wine.
As midnight approached so the considerable noise from the Boma became louder and louder. Judging by the size of the crowd, it looked like all the campers had now joined in. The beer and wine were clearly flowing freely.
We cracked open a bottle of Jack Daniels at around 11h00 and counted down the last few seconds to the popping of Champagne corks and much laughter and singing emanating from the Boma area.
We actually had a lot of fun as we toasted the New Year with a bottle of our own Bubbly, amidst thoughts of our upcoming trip to Mozambique. A country that I have not been to, since before the civil war. Which lasted 30 years and devastated this beautiful coastline and its innocent people.
Maybe a few too many Jacks.
NEW YEAR’S DAY
Although I was up at around 06h00 it was already 10h00 before we began to think about food. To be honest I think we were both a little hung over from the night before. Who knows how the campers must be feeling this morning?
We packed our cooler box with eggs and bacon and drove to the picnic site at Red Cliffs, so named, for the red banks of sand on either side of the Usutu River, the boundary between South Africa and Mozambique.
The Temperature was about thirty five degrees when we arrived and rising. I set up our portable gas braai under a shady tree and in no time we were drinking an ice cold beer and enjoying fresh rolls filled with grilled bacon and fried eggs. This is the perfect cure for a hangover. Then a leisurely drive back to camp and the welcomed air-conditioning.
During the hot hours the bird baths in front of the chalets are a great place to photograph a variety of birds, including Bulbul, Masked Weaver and Plum-coloured Starling. They sit in the water and fluff themselves up while splashing water into their feathers.
On almost every tree trunk, around the camp, there is a resident Striped Skink or alternatively a Tree Agama (Bloukop). They spend their time sunbathing and the many breeding male Agama,s bob their heads up and down to show off their brilliant blue headdress.
A lot of trees in the camp also had huge bunches of Leopard Orchids growing in them. Unfortunately none were flowering at the time of our visit.
Later in the afternoon when it was a little cooler we decided to take a drive back to the Ezulwini Hide:-
We saw four Woolly Neck Stork at The Vulture Restaurant – so called, because this is an open area with lots of dead trees. The rangers bring any dead animals found and put them there for the vultures to pick clean.
From the hide we saw:-
• Glossy Ibis
• Cattle Egret
• Greater White Egret
• White-Faced Duck
• South African Shell Duck
• Grey Heron
• Fish Eagle
• Pied Kingfisher
• Avocet
• Black Winged Stilt
• Spur-Winged Geese
• Yellow-Billed Stork
• Spoonbill
• Golden Orb Spider
• Drop Wing Dragonfly
EN ROUTE TO MAPUTO IN MOZAMBIQUE
We were running short of fuel and would have to find a place to fill up before crossing the border to Mozambique.
The road to Ponta do Ouro although tarred was full of large and dangerous pot holes. We had to drive slowly to ensure that we did not damage a tyre in one of them. After Pelindaba the road was a little better and we eventually were able to fill up at Kosi Bay.
Ponta do Ouro, ‘the point of gold’ is a beautiful beach just across the border from South Africa and a very popular destination for tourists from Johannesburg. The diving and snorkelling is good and plenty of the 4x4’s returning home along the road to Kosi Bay were towing boats and Jet Skis.
The border procedures were complicated. First you had to buy third party insurance and then have this verified and pay again before you could join the queue to have your passport stamped.
By the time we were finished it was 11h00. Driving through the border we came across a number of sand roads heading off in different directions, but not a sign in sight. We picked a road and around a bend saw a faded old sign with an arrow pointing - Maputo left. A few kilometres further on I asked a local, sitting under a tree. “Which way to Maputo”? He replied “just keep left”.
Well, let me tell you, you go left and when the road forks you just wing it from there and try to use your GPS. Problem is that the GPS is showing a track with an unknown destination. The track consists of thick beach sand and in some places it is so thick that it scrapes the bottom of my four wheel drive vehicle. We are notorious for taking the “easy” route.
After driving for about three hours we came across the main road, just before Salamanga. It was wider but there was lots of water and mud to navigate. They had had torrential rains in the area the day before we arrived.
We finally arrived at Maputo at around 16h00. We had anticipated the whole trip taking four hours, so decided to stay the night in Maputo and continue on in the morning. We were worried that we would get to Macanetta only to find that the ferry was closed for the night. Sleeping in the car was not an option that we relished, so we checked into the Southern Sun Hotel, along the beachfront in Marginal road. For SA residents, accommodation at US$235 per night, even though inclusive of breakfast was a lot to pay.
It was forty degrees outside so we headed down to the pool for a swim and a few Laurentinas (one of the local beers) to quench our thirst and wash away the dust from the days travel.
MAPUTO
A Portuguese business friend of mine back in SA told me that the best place to eat in Maputo was the Restaurante Costa do Sol. We had planned to have lunch there (ok a tad optimistically) but we are always flexible so dinner it was going to be.
As luck would have it the restaurant was in the same road as the hotel, just about ten kilometres further north.
Leaving the hotel and driving along Marginal road we found the road teaming with party revellers. This has to be the biggest beach party on Earth. There were thousands of people all well inebriated and dancing and partying in the street and on the beach. We were told, this partying, happened every week, Friday to Sunday but that the second of January is a holiday in Mozambique so it was even a better excuse than normal to get down to the beach. Now in Mozambique there are no laws about selling liquor, so there were people selling beer wine and spirits all along the road, from make shift shops or just from the boot of their car.
This is Africa so true to form we were pulled off the road amongst the total chaos for not having a front number plate. I have to admit that the number plate disappeared on the road to Savuti about two years ago in Botswana.
However after a bit of negotiation the fine of three thousand Meticais (the local currency) was reduced to a cash payment of a hundred SA Rand. Bribing officials, especially the police is a way of life in Mozambique. Tip: If you travel anywhere in Africa always carry some cash. Just in case.
Eventually we arrived at our destination. Despite the noise from across the road the meal was awesome. We had a R900 meal of Prawns and a few glasses of local red Vino. This was a memorable meal consisting of 12 each of the perfectly grilled, huge, Tiger Prawns, totally worth the money even though it was not much cheaper than back home.
MACANETA ISLAND
After a leisurely and extended breakfast we drove to find a supermarket to buy some food.
In Maputo your GPS will show you plenty of “Mercados”, which we found are actually outdoor markets which sell everything under the sun, but not groceries.
Eventually we found a Shoprite Checkers that we had seen when driving into Maputo, to stock up on food. The shop was well stocked and we were able to get everything we needed for the next eight days of camping.
Maputo is a typical African city, vibrant but with plenty of litter and derelict buildings. This is a legacy of the years of war and resultant tough financial times. However it has its own African charm and the road to recovery, while long, is evidently underway. The people are friendly and helpful and unlike in SA, one always feels safe while in their presence.
THE FERRY TO MACANETTA
We arrived at the ferry around midday. We did not realise that this was such a popular spot with the locals. Remember that it was Saturday and the third of January so there was definitely a party atmosphere in and around Maputo. We found a long queue of vehicles heading for another party on the Island. The ferry takes six cars at a time, a trailer and vehicle counts as two vehicles and we were in a queue behind twenty other vehicles.
It was hot, a little under forty degrees but luckily there were plenty of pubs around and after a few 3M beers (Portuguese: Doj M) we met some fellow Durbanites and settled down to wait. At thirty Meticais the beers were cheap and ice cold and flowed freely.
The last hotel before the ferry is run by an ex-Johannesburg Pharmacist and his Mozambique wife. They were doing a roaring trade thanks to the many thirsty travellers.
The ferry crossing costs,180 Meticais for the vehicle plus 30 Meticais p/person, return.
Now one would think that you pay your money in the order that you are parked in the Queue. Yes? No - not in Africa. The attendant had some friend in the queue behind us and was doing his best to ignore me and take their money. It took a few heated words to focus his attention back to the fact that I was ahead of them. These “polite” folk just pulled in front of us, much to our dismay.
Clutching my tickets I headed back to the vehicle intent on making sure that no one else got in front of me. While I was reversing out from behind the car that had just pushed in front of me, my dear wife unbeknown to me was directing traffic directly behind my car. I didn’t see her and managed to reverse into her, sending her sprawling into the dusty road. Karen was clearly not impressed and temporary war was declared. However after a multitude of apologies, all was forgiven.
MACANETTA ISLAND
Once all the vehicles were loaded we quickly got underway and after a short trip arrived on the other side of the river. Thanks to the expert steered against a very strong current by our trusty ferry captain.
The roads on the Island are bad, very bad. We would strongly recommend that you only do this in a four by four vehicle. However saying that, the local taxi’s, seem to traverse the road with relative ease, although we did see one tying his exhaust back with some wire stolen from the fence.
We had no prior booking, not a great idea, but saw a number on a signboard at the ferry crossing and phoned to book a campsite.
At 200 Meticais per night the campsite was ok, I guess. There were fairly clean but very basic ablutions, electricity points and good shade. The shade was valuable, bearing in mind that the average summer temperature is around forty degrees and it only begins to cool off once the sun goes down to around thirty degrees.
The first afternoon was rough. There was a day visitor’s area next to the campsite and at least fifty cars full of inebriated locals playing their music at full blast. Thankfully by seven in the evening they were all on their way back home, so as not to miss the last ferry. Apparently the ferry operates until everyone is off the island.
The good news is that there is a shop which has an endless supply of delicious ‘Pao’, (the local Portuguese bread). This has to be the best bread I have ever tasted and it lasts for days. Oh, and of course they also had plenty of cold beer as well. We had quickly acquired a taste for the local Doj M’s. Doj means two in Portuguese as in counting Um, Doj, Twars, Quartro’s, Sinq, Seite etc. Not sure if I have the spelling or pronunciation right. Forgive me if not. Any help in this regard would be appreciated.
We walked over the dune and down to the beach, which stretches as far as the eye can see in both directions. Unfortunately as a result of the all day beach party it was full of washed up Kariba Weed (Water Hyacinth), washed out to sea from the river, piles of litter and beer bottles everywhere. What a shame, as this could be a really beautiful stretch of beach.
That evening after the crowds had left we made a braai under the cloudless moonlit sky. As soon as we started cooking we had a few local visitors. These took the form of some of the Island dogs, one of which had just had puppies. They soon became our friends and believe me they were well fed while we were there, thanks to Karen.
One of the best parts about being out of the city is that you can see the Milky Way and at least a gazillion stars. If you get the chance, take out your binoculars and you will see that some of the larger stars become multiple stars. Makes one realise how small and insignificant we really are.
One of the dogs had obviously been hit by someone and had a nasty wound that needed some attention from ‘Doctor’ Karen. He also needed food and water but within a day thanks to all the TLC was much better.
BEACH WALK
I woke up as the sun came up and put the kettle on for a welcomed cup of steaming hot Coffee. Rejuvenated we decided to take a 2hr long stroll on the beach. We picked up many shells and interesting stones along the way and just generally had a relaxing time and at the same time gave the calf muscles a good work-out in the thick white sand.
Maybe a few too many Jacks.
NEW YEAR’S DAY
Although I was up at around 06h00 it was already 10h00 before we began to think about food. To be honest I think we were both a little hung over from the night before. Who knows how the campers must be feeling this morning?
We packed our cooler box with eggs and bacon and drove to the picnic site at Red Cliffs, so named, for the red banks of sand on either side of the Usutu River, the boundary between South Africa and Mozambique.
The Temperature was about thirty five degrees when we arrived and rising. I set up our portable gas braai under a shady tree and in no time we were drinking an ice cold beer and enjoying fresh rolls filled with grilled bacon and fried eggs. This is the perfect cure for a hangover. Then a leisurely drive back to camp and the welcomed air-conditioning.
During the hot hours the bird baths in front of the chalets are a great place to photograph a variety of birds, including Bulbul, Masked Weaver and Plum-coloured Starling. They sit in the water and fluff themselves up while splashing water into their feathers.On almost every tree trunk, around the camp, there is a resident Striped Skink or alternatively a Tree Agama (Bloukop). They spend their time sunbathing and the many breeding male Agama,s bob their heads up and down to show off their brilliant blue headdress.
A lot of trees in the camp also had huge bunches of Leopard Orchids growing in them. Unfortunately none were flowering at the time of our visit.
Later in the afternoon when it was a little cooler we decided to take a drive back to the Ezulwini Hide:-
We saw four Woolly Neck Stork at The Vulture Restaurant – so called, because this is an open area with lots of dead trees. The rangers bring any dead animals found and put them there for the vultures to pick clean.
From the hide we saw:-
• Glossy Ibis
• Cattle Egret
• Greater White Egret
• White-Faced Duck
• South African Shell Duck
• Grey Heron
• Fish Eagle
• Pied Kingfisher
• Avocet
• Black Winged Stilt
• Spur-Winged Geese
• Yellow-Billed Stork
• Spoonbill
• Golden Orb Spider
• Drop Wing Dragonfly
EN ROUTE TO MAPUTO IN MOZAMBIQUE
We were running short of fuel and would have to find a place to fill up before crossing the border to Mozambique.
The road to Ponta do Ouro although tarred was full of large and dangerous pot holes. We had to drive slowly to ensure that we did not damage a tyre in one of them. After Pelindaba the road was a little better and we eventually were able to fill up at Kosi Bay.
Ponta do Ouro, ‘the point of gold’ is a beautiful beach just across the border from South Africa and a very popular destination for tourists from Johannesburg. The diving and snorkelling is good and plenty of the 4x4’s returning home along the road to Kosi Bay were towing boats and Jet Skis.
The border procedures were complicated. First you had to buy third party insurance and then have this verified and pay again before you could join the queue to have your passport stamped.
By the time we were finished it was 11h00. Driving through the border we came across a number of sand roads heading off in different directions, but not a sign in sight. We picked a road and around a bend saw a faded old sign with an arrow pointing - Maputo left. A few kilometres further on I asked a local, sitting under a tree. “Which way to Maputo”? He replied “just keep left”.
Well, let me tell you, you go left and when the road forks you just wing it from there and try to use your GPS. Problem is that the GPS is showing a track with an unknown destination. The track consists of thick beach sand and in some places it is so thick that it scrapes the bottom of my four wheel drive vehicle. We are notorious for taking the “easy” route.
After driving for about three hours we came across the main road, just before Salamanga. It was wider but there was lots of water and mud to navigate. They had had torrential rains in the area the day before we arrived.
We finally arrived at Maputo at around 16h00. We had anticipated the whole trip taking four hours, so decided to stay the night in Maputo and continue on in the morning. We were worried that we would get to Macanetta only to find that the ferry was closed for the night. Sleeping in the car was not an option that we relished, so we checked into the Southern Sun Hotel, along the beachfront in Marginal road. For SA residents, accommodation at US$235 per night, even though inclusive of breakfast was a lot to pay.
It was forty degrees outside so we headed down to the pool for a swim and a few Laurentinas (one of the local beers) to quench our thirst and wash away the dust from the days travel.
MAPUTO
A Portuguese business friend of mine back in SA told me that the best place to eat in Maputo was the Restaurante Costa do Sol. We had planned to have lunch there (ok a tad optimistically) but we are always flexible so dinner it was going to be.
As luck would have it the restaurant was in the same road as the hotel, just about ten kilometres further north.
Leaving the hotel and driving along Marginal road we found the road teaming with party revellers. This has to be the biggest beach party on Earth. There were thousands of people all well inebriated and dancing and partying in the street and on the beach. We were told, this partying, happened every week, Friday to Sunday but that the second of January is a holiday in Mozambique so it was even a better excuse than normal to get down to the beach. Now in Mozambique there are no laws about selling liquor, so there were people selling beer wine and spirits all along the road, from make shift shops or just from the boot of their car.
This is Africa so true to form we were pulled off the road amongst the total chaos for not having a front number plate. I have to admit that the number plate disappeared on the road to Savuti about two years ago in Botswana.
However after a bit of negotiation the fine of three thousand Meticais (the local currency) was reduced to a cash payment of a hundred SA Rand. Bribing officials, especially the police is a way of life in Mozambique. Tip: If you travel anywhere in Africa always carry some cash. Just in case.
Eventually we arrived at our destination. Despite the noise from across the road the meal was awesome. We had a R900 meal of Prawns and a few glasses of local red Vino. This was a memorable meal consisting of 12 each of the perfectly grilled, huge, Tiger Prawns, totally worth the money even though it was not much cheaper than back home.
MACANETA ISLAND
After a leisurely and extended breakfast we drove to find a supermarket to buy some food.
In Maputo your GPS will show you plenty of “Mercados”, which we found are actually outdoor markets which sell everything under the sun, but not groceries.
Eventually we found a Shoprite Checkers that we had seen when driving into Maputo, to stock up on food. The shop was well stocked and we were able to get everything we needed for the next eight days of camping.
Maputo is a typical African city, vibrant but with plenty of litter and derelict buildings. This is a legacy of the years of war and resultant tough financial times. However it has its own African charm and the road to recovery, while long, is evidently underway. The people are friendly and helpful and unlike in SA, one always feels safe while in their presence.
THE FERRY TO MACANETTA
We arrived at the ferry around midday. We did not realise that this was such a popular spot with the locals. Remember that it was Saturday and the third of January so there was definitely a party atmosphere in and around Maputo. We found a long queue of vehicles heading for another party on the Island. The ferry takes six cars at a time, a trailer and vehicle counts as two vehicles and we were in a queue behind twenty other vehicles.
It was hot, a little under forty degrees but luckily there were plenty of pubs around and after a few 3M beers (Portuguese: Doj M) we met some fellow Durbanites and settled down to wait. At thirty Meticais the beers were cheap and ice cold and flowed freely.
The last hotel before the ferry is run by an ex-Johannesburg Pharmacist and his Mozambique wife. They were doing a roaring trade thanks to the many thirsty travellers.
The ferry crossing costs,180 Meticais for the vehicle plus 30 Meticais p/person, return.
Now one would think that you pay your money in the order that you are parked in the Queue. Yes? No - not in Africa. The attendant had some friend in the queue behind us and was doing his best to ignore me and take their money. It took a few heated words to focus his attention back to the fact that I was ahead of them. These “polite” folk just pulled in front of us, much to our dismay.
Clutching my tickets I headed back to the vehicle intent on making sure that no one else got in front of me. While I was reversing out from behind the car that had just pushed in front of me, my dear wife unbeknown to me was directing traffic directly behind my car. I didn’t see her and managed to reverse into her, sending her sprawling into the dusty road. Karen was clearly not impressed and temporary war was declared. However after a multitude of apologies, all was forgiven.
MACANETTA ISLAND
Once all the vehicles were loaded we quickly got underway and after a short trip arrived on the other side of the river. Thanks to the expert steered against a very strong current by our trusty ferry captain.
The roads on the Island are bad, very bad. We would strongly recommend that you only do this in a four by four vehicle. However saying that, the local taxi’s, seem to traverse the road with relative ease, although we did see one tying his exhaust back with some wire stolen from the fence.
We had no prior booking, not a great idea, but saw a number on a signboard at the ferry crossing and phoned to book a campsite.
At 200 Meticais per night the campsite was ok, I guess. There were fairly clean but very basic ablutions, electricity points and good shade. The shade was valuable, bearing in mind that the average summer temperature is around forty degrees and it only begins to cool off once the sun goes down to around thirty degrees.
The first afternoon was rough. There was a day visitor’s area next to the campsite and at least fifty cars full of inebriated locals playing their music at full blast. Thankfully by seven in the evening they were all on their way back home, so as not to miss the last ferry. Apparently the ferry operates until everyone is off the island.
The good news is that there is a shop which has an endless supply of delicious ‘Pao’, (the local Portuguese bread). This has to be the best bread I have ever tasted and it lasts for days. Oh, and of course they also had plenty of cold beer as well. We had quickly acquired a taste for the local Doj M’s. Doj means two in Portuguese as in counting Um, Doj, Twars, Quartro’s, Sinq, Seite etc. Not sure if I have the spelling or pronunciation right. Forgive me if not. Any help in this regard would be appreciated.
We walked over the dune and down to the beach, which stretches as far as the eye can see in both directions. Unfortunately as a result of the all day beach party it was full of washed up Kariba Weed (Water Hyacinth), washed out to sea from the river, piles of litter and beer bottles everywhere. What a shame, as this could be a really beautiful stretch of beach.
That evening after the crowds had left we made a braai under the cloudless moonlit sky. As soon as we started cooking we had a few local visitors. These took the form of some of the Island dogs, one of which had just had puppies. They soon became our friends and believe me they were well fed while we were there, thanks to Karen.
One of the best parts about being out of the city is that you can see the Milky Way and at least a gazillion stars. If you get the chance, take out your binoculars and you will see that some of the larger stars become multiple stars. Makes one realise how small and insignificant we really are.
One of the dogs had obviously been hit by someone and had a nasty wound that needed some attention from ‘Doctor’ Karen. He also needed food and water but within a day thanks to all the TLC was much better.
BEACH WALK
I woke up as the sun came up and put the kettle on for a welcomed cup of steaming hot Coffee. Rejuvenated we decided to take a 2hr long stroll on the beach. We picked up many shells and interesting stones along the way and just generally had a relaxing time and at the same time gave the calf muscles a good work-out in the thick white sand.
By 09h00 it was already very hot and so we swam in the beautiful clear sea water to cool off.
During the day there were more revellers in car park. It was Sunday and thankfully nowhere near the number that we experienced the day before. Fortunately the last ones left as the sun went down.
The following day we woke up to some welcomed cloud and it was much cooler than the day before. We decided to walk north and had a long blissful walk past the local fisherman, landing their nets full of glistening little fish. It looked as though the whole village was involved as men, women and children all got stuck in hauling the heavy net onto the beach.
On the way back to camp we stopped off at the shop and bought some fresh “Pao”. It is baked fresh every morning and although Karen is not generally a bread eater, she loved Bacon and Egg Pao washed down with hot, strong coffee, on our return to camp.
PRAIA XAI-XAI
It was time to get back on the road, this time to the resort town of Xai-Xai. We broke camp at 05h00 and were at the ferry by 07h00. We had to wait a while, but we were first in the queue and were soon on the other side. Then an easy two hour drive north on the EN1 to Cashew Nut country.
Upon arrival at the town of Xai-Xai, we first found a “Bureau de Change” and traded some Rands for Meticais at a rate of R3.60. The rate at shops and petrol stations is between R2.10 and R2.50 so it is advisable to buy Meticais at the bank rather than use your Rands at shops.
Mozambique is a beautiful country, however it went through a civil war that waged from 1964 until peace finally prevailed in 1994. It is going to take a very long time for the scars of thirty years of war to heal. Wherever you drive you see derelict buildings, left over from the severe depression inflicted on the population during the war.
Xai-Xai is ripe for investment with good beaches, a beautiful natural reef and not very much in the way of accommodation to offer the tourist. In the centre of this unspoiled beach is a derelict hotel that has been stripped bare of everything but the original concrete structure. There is a campsite and a limited number of accommodation establishments all found along the beach road.
We stayed in the local camp site which is situated just back from the beach and within easy walking distance to good snorkelling and the main swimming area. The ablutions are not the best, but there is hot water and electricity. We hired a young boy, more out of sympathy than necessity, to wash our dishes and sweep around the campsite. He was also very good at supplying us with fresh fish which he bought for us from some SA fishermen that were also staying in the campsite.
Once our camp was set up we decided to go for a swim in front of the derelict Xai-Xai Hotel. It was around 18h00 and there were many of the local people also cooling off in the beautiful, cool water. There is a natural reef that runs parallel to the beach, about 50m out. The waves crash onto the reef and then the water spills over into a sort of lagoon, so there are only small waves inside. It’s like swimming in a very large salt swimming pool, only depending on the tide the currents can be quite strong. In the middle of the beach stands the derelict Xai-Xai Hotel. Once a popular holiday resort.
That evening we dined in fine style on freshly caught King Fish, which we cooked on the braai. Delicious, especially since we had a few glasses of wine to accompany the delicate flavours.
PRAIA CHONGOENE
As a child I grew up in Swaziland and we used to holiday at the Chongoene Hotel on the beach just past Xai-Xai. We decided to take a drive and look for the old hotel, as I remember that the snorkelling was particularly good there. We tried a few roads and on the third attempt there it was in all its dilapidated, derelict beauty. It is such a shame as this hotel held some very special teenage memories for me. The sea was a bit rough as it was past high tide, so we decided not to swim there.
On the way back to camp we stopped in town, to stock up on some provisions. After trying a few stores recommended by the teller at the Bureau de Change, we stopped at the BP to put in fuel and discovered that the BP Express Shop was better stocked and had everything we needed. This included Pao, ice and cold beer and it was much cheaper.
If you stay in the campsite you do not have to go out and buy fresh produce. Each morning at 06h00 a man arrived with a box of hot Pao and in the evenings a woman would come by with beautiful, fresh fruit and vegetables.
It seems like the dogs always find us. We had a visit from a “mommy” dog, also in need of a good meal and some TLC. Karen removed all the ticks from her and fed her a huge meal, which she wolfed down. (Our only wish is that when we leave there will be someone else to look after her).
SNORKELLING AT XAI-XAI
This morning we went to snorkel again. This time we caught the tide at its best and swam out to the reef, the water was just beautiful, clear and warm.
We tried out our new underwater video camera and had a great deal of fun while opening a whole new world, there are unbelievable sights and sounds underwater.
The visibility was so good; we stayed out for over an hour in these near perfect conditions – good visibility, no current and low tide.
When we got back to the beach a man came along with a bag full of fresh Oysters. We got 54 smallish oysters for the equivalent of ZAR50. He came back to our campsite opened and cleaned them in sea water and then presented them on a platter that Karen provided. Somehow he even produced some fresh Limes to finish the dish off.
What a wonderful breakfast, after a morning of snorkelling. Oysters straight out the sea, freshly ground black Pepper, Lime Juice and Tobasco sauce. That’s what I call the perfect beach breakfast.
Mid afternoon it was blistering hot so we stopped off at ‘The Beach Café’ which was a short walk away, for a couple of ice cold Doj M’s. Then for a swim and fresh Rock Cod for dinner.
MASSINGIR DAM
An early start just after sunrise saw us packed and ready to leave by 07h00 for the next leg of our trip to the Kruger National park via Massingir Dam and the Limpopo Trans-frontier Park.
The route took us south to about mid point between Xai-Xai and Maputo and then west to Massingir turning off at Macia. The road wasn’t bad up to Chokwe and then to Macarretane. We made good time through the farmlands of southern Mozambique. It was evident from all the derelict warehouses along the way that this must have been a very productive farming area pre-war. However there was plenty of evidence of farming resuming in the area.
We turned off at Chokwe and went through the farming town of Macarretane. The last 100km to Massingir the road became quite bad, with lots of pot holes. We crossed the dam wall of the impressive Massingir Dam and followed the signs to the Limpopo Park offices.
It is best to arrive at The Park’s Reception with cash. You have to pay ZAR80 per vehicle and ZAR80 per person. We had done a bit of shopping along the way and then used the last of our Meticais to fill up with fuel, so at this stage we had about 18 Meticais and ZAR20 between us.
Fortunately they have credit card facilities, but no one quite knew how to use the terminal and signal seemed to be a problem.
We were lucky enough to meet the Park’s Head Warden, Hennie Jacobs who was very helpful. Hennie was on his way to Letaba for a meeting, the same camp we were staying at, so he agreed to meet us at the Autobank at Letaba where I could draw cash for him.
So that took care of the Limpopo fees but we still had to pay the Kruger Park fees. However we set off for the Giriyondo Border Post which is the border linking Limpopo Trans-frontier Park to the Kruger Park. The road is only 75km long and although they will only let 4x4’s through it proved to be easy riding. Fortunately credit cards weren’t a problem at the SA Parks Board offices.
LETABA VIA GIRIYONDO GATE “THE GATEWAY TO KRUGER”
Giriyondo Border Post is 180km’s from Macarretane and 240km’s from Xai-Xai. Letaba is another 47km’s from Giriyondo.
We arrived at Letaba just before 15h00 and paid our debt to Hennie, who was patiently waiting for us. We had intended to overnight at Massingir Dam but had decided to press on, so we had arrived a day early. They were full and all we could get for the night was tented accommodation. Not advisable as there is only a fan and to get air into the tent all the side flaps need to be opened. So it is pretty much like being in a fishbowl. We would have preferred to sleep in our own tent. Next time we will know. The ablutions were just across the road and as always spotlessly clean and well equipped. A long walk around the camp followed by a quick swim and a few cold beers back at the tent and we were ready for an early dinner. It had been a long day of travelling.
LETABA DAY 2
We had to check out of the “fishbowl” at 09h00 and could only check into our chalet at 12h00. This meant we had a couple of hours to kill.
It was already very hot so we spent the morning at the pool, had a leisurely breakfast on the terrace overlooking the river and then went to the Elephant Museum. The Elephant Hall is fascinating and always worth a visit. They have the tusks of all the major Tuskers that form the Magnificent Seven. You have to stand next to them to appreciate how much Ivory those Elephants carried around.
We were at reception at 12h00 sharp and asked the receptionist if we could have a good unit, seeing that we had had to spend the night in the “fishbowl”. She was very helpful and allocated a lovely unit, right on the river and looking onto huge Fig trees full of fruit to attract all the birds. Unit C17.
Late that afternoon we drove to the Matambeni bird hide on the Engelhardt dam. We were very disappointed, as the dam was clogged up with Water Hyacinth and there was not much to see.
However it wasn’t a complete waste of time as we came across a huge flock of Red-Billed Quelea, nesting along the road in Acacia Trees. This is something to experience as there are literally millions of birds that build nests over an area of around 10ha. They make so much noise that you can hardly hear yourself speak. A true marvel of nature.
Back at the camp there was a full moon as we made a braai and cooked dinner, of course washed down with a few glasses of wine.
LETABA DAY 3
We got up at 04h00 to meet the dawn. This is the best time of the day for photography and we soon came upon a troop of Baboons lying in the road sleeping. They are always interesting to watch especially the young ones who seem to abound with energy.
Before breakfast we took a walk around the Sycamore Fig Trees. They were filled with bird-life. We saw:-
• Green Pigeons
• Mourning Dove
• Laughing Dove
• Woodland Kingfisher
• Go-Away Bird (Grey Lourie)
• Black-eyed Bulbul
• Robin Chat
• Fish Eagle on the other side of the River
• Maribou Stork in the distance.
The Bushbuck, Mourning Dove and Starling came for breakfast. The Bushbuck are so tame that they will eat out of your hand. Karen even managed to get the Mourning Dove to take bread from her hand.
Not sure whether the Parks Board officials would be too happy with us feeding the animals.
It was a cloudy, cool day so we decided to go for a drive to Olifants, one of my favourite Kruger camps. The camp is set on top of a hill overlooking the Olifants River which is called the Rio Elefantes when it enters Mozambique just behind the Lebombo Mountains. We sat on the lookout deck, perched high above the river and used our binoculars to search for game below.
We then drove back to Letaba and came across a flock of Wattled Starling. The first time we had spotted these.
We took a long walk around the camp and spent some time watching a pair of Crested Barbet’s making their nest in a dead tree before heading back to our chalet.
Once again we made a braai and had an early night. It had been a long but interesting day.
LETABA DAY 4
On our last day we once again got up early to go for a game drive. We decided to do the loop road. We saw 4 Bull Elephant as well as a Black Koran (They call it the Champagne Bird due to the popping noise that it makes). We kept a keen eye open for Leopard along the river, but no luck.
When we returned to camp, we found a Red Lipped Herald snake. Mildly venemos but no threat to humans so we helped him on his way.
In the afternoon we drove to the Engelhardt Dam Wall to find that the whole dam is being converted with Fish ladders. These ladders enable fish to migrate upstream.
LOWER SABIE
We were up early again and packed up to drive to Lower Sabie via Satara and Tshokwane. Although the area around Satara is well known for it’s lion Prides, we were not fortunate enough to see any. The problem with game reserves in summer is that the grass is long and the animals, particularly Lion are well camouflaged.
I was once on a Game View Vehicle when we stopped to look at a pride of Lion lying in grass about 30m away. You could just see them from the elevated vehicle. After about 10min a Lioness stood up not 4m away between the pride and us. She had been lying down and no one had spotted her, not even the ranger who was quite shocked.
We stopped at Satara and had a great toasted Bacon and Egg sandwich with a good strong Cappuccino. I have never stayed at Satara. It is a big camp with a really well stocked store and restaurant area.
After breakfast we continued on our way only making a short stop at Tshokwane to use the toilets. The last leg of the trip was to Lower Sabie where we were overnighting. I took the longer route via Skukuza.
We arrived mid afternoon and once we had checked in and then sat at the deck over-looking the Sabie River. Here we had a refreshing beer then found our chalet and unpacked. At 16h00 we took a drive to Sunset Dam and then across the Sabie River bridge. Here we photographed a Giant Kingfisher and a pod of Hippos. I have been to Lower Sabie several times over the years and the same Giant Kingfisher can be seen sitting on the bridge or a rock nearby, posing for the cameras every evening.
EN ROUTE TO SWAZILAND
The trip to the Royal Swazi Hotel and Spa is around 3 hours so we took our time packing up. We then drove to Crocodile Bridge to exit the park on the H4-02, only to find that the bridge was closed due to flooding. As luck would have it they closed it a half an hour before we arrived.
We were not too happy as we now had to drive to Malelane Gate to exit and then back on the national road past Crocodile Bridge and Komatipoort to Swaziland. The detour added an additional 3hrs onto our trip.
We entered Swaziland at Border Gate and then drove through Tshaneni and Mhlume. I lived in both these towns as a teenager and so we took a quick detour into Mhlume and even managed to find our old house.
We then headed through Tambankulu onto Manzini and then finally to the Ezulwini Valley. We booked into the Royal Swazi Spa and after unpacking we headed for the Pool Bar and had a few cold beers.
We enjoyed a fine dinner in the Plantations Restaurant and then off to bed for an early night after another long trip.
SWAZILAND
One thing about Sun International, who own the hotel, is that they know how to put on a good breakfast. We drank lots of Coffee and ate far too much, while watching the cleaning staff trying to prevent some Vervet Monkeys from stealing the sugar from the outside tables. I am still not sure who won the contest as the monkeys were all sitting in the trees eating sugar as we left.
We took a drive to Ngwenya Glass, near the Oshoek Border Post, where they make beautiful glassware by hand. It is fascinating to stand and watch the glassblowers making a myriad of items from recycled glass. They are true artists. Karen bought a stunning set of wine glasses for home. They are so beautiful that I don’t think we will ever use them. I bought her a clear glass Elephant for her collection. It weighs about .5kg and has huge ears.
On the same plot of land is the Rocking Horse Company. Here they make the most beautiful Rocking Horses from indigenous hardwoods. It is amazing to see how these stunning “toys” are made. They are quite expensive but worth every cent. The owner told us that people place orders with him and then he sends them all over the world. Karen was like a child in a toy shop, she was so excited.
After the Rocking Horse Company we drove up the hill to visit the oldest known mine in the world. People were mining iron ore there 43,000 years ago. Quite unbelievable.
We then drove back through Mbabane to the Swazi Candles factory near Malkerns. This is where the beautiful Swazi candles are hand-made. Once again we were able to watch the craftsmen fashioning animals from warm wax and then covering them with multi coloured wax veneer.On the way home we stopped at the Swazi Market and bought two carved Soapstone Tortoises. We decided on one large one and one small one for our garden.
After a swim and a shower we had a candlelight dinner at the Pool Deck. It was the most beautiful warm summers evening which ensured that the food was especially good and of course the wine flowed freely. It was sadly the last night of our adventure.
We went down to breakfast around 08h00 and enjoyed the assortment of fresh fruit, Bacon, Eggs and of course lots of Coffee. After breakfast we spent a few hours at the pool, relaxing in the warm sun, before packing up and heading back home to Durban.
We got home around 18h00 and had an early night. We had travelled almost 3,000km in the last 16 days. It is always great to get home and our four dogs and two cats as always were thrilled to see us.
Until next time.
We got home around 18h00 and had an early night. We had travelled almost 3,000km in the last 16 days. It is always great to get home and our four dogs and two cats as always were thrilled to see us.
Until next time.
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