Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana 2012

ZIMBABWE, ZAMBIA AND BOTSWANA

Its 5am, New Years Eve and we are getting dressed and packing a few last minute items in preparation for a 4,000km return trip to Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana.

After six years of faithful service from my Hyundai Tucson V6 4x4 and many memorable adventures together we decided to trade her in for a Land Rover Defender 2.4 Turbo Diesel a few months previously.

This is the perfect vehicle to tame even the wildest of Africa’s roads. She has plenty of ground clearance and lots of space in the back to pack all our gear as well as an upgraded Iron Man suspension, Long range fuel tank, duel battery system, bull bar with winch and spotlights and a Frontrunner roof rack.

The last piece of equipment for our trip was the Howling Moon Roof Top Tent which I had fitted in Pietermaritzburg a few days before.

Linyanti the Landie is packed and ready to go. Her name comes from a region in Botswana between Moremi and Savute which is bordered by the Linyanti River.

A quick stop to fill up the 110 Lt Diesel tanks and by 6am we are on our way to our overnight stop at Mokopane where we had booked a night at a self catering unit called @Marula.

Our route took us along the M3 past Estcourt and then onto the N11 through Ladysmith and Newcastle to Ermelo where we had to stop to buy a new Garmin at Game because ours had stopped working. Once that was done we carried on to Groblersdal and then to Mokopane. We arrived at 5pm having travelled 880km for the day.

Our Landy

It was New Years Eve and so we went and had dinner at O’Hagans which we had seen driving in. It is early and so there were only a few tables of people and so we enjoy our dinner and then drive the short distance back to @Marula to turn in for the night. No festivities for us tonight.

At midnight we are woken by loud crackers going off in the town where the locals are welcoming the New Year. We wish each other and then turned over and go back to sleep.

DAY TWO

Not only is it New Years Day but also a Sunday so we packed up and then drove around looking for somewhere to get a cup of Coffee. It seems that everything was closed but eventually we found a filling station that sold coffee which went down very well indeed.

By 6:30am we were heading out of town back on the N11, en route to the border post at Grobler’s Bridge about two hours drive away.

We clear the South African side without incident but when we get to the Botswana side we have to pay P160 for our Temporary Vehicle Import Permit and they will not accept Rands. The Bureau de Change on the South African side was closed when we stopped there so we have to walk about 1 km along the road in Botswana to get some Pula from a Bureau de Change next to a petrol station. It is blisteringly hot and not an enjoyable experience at all.

We pay our Pula and get the paperwork but are then stopped for a vehicle check at the gate. All the customs official is interested in is our fridge where he finds a packet of lovely fresh Tomatoes and promptly confiscated them along with an English Cucumber.

I knew from reading 4x4 Blogs that South Africans were not allowed to take meat into Botswana but was unaware that there was a problem with fresh fruit and vegetables as well.

Having wasted almost two hours at the border post we are finally on our way along the B140 until it intersected the A1 to Palapye and Serule and then on to Francistown.

As luck would have it we were pulled over for speeding. The speed limit fluctuates between 100Km/hour and 80Km/hour. I was caught doing 99Km/hour in an 80 zone. The fine was P580 but seeing as though I only have P200 on me they accepted this as a cash payment. We are already running very late and I am not going to waste more time arguing with the local Police about a receipt.

In Francistown we stop at the Pick ‘n Pay and stock up with fresh meat and rolls and then on to Plumtree, the border post into Zimbabwe. We clear customs without incident and then head out towards Bulawayo where we will fill up the tanks again.

We arrive at Bulawayo at around 4pm which was the time that I had calculated we would arrive at Hwange. Clearly I had badly underestimated the traveling time needed through Botswana and the time lost at the border posts.

After filling up with Diesel we take the A8 to Victoria Falls which will take us past Hwange National Park, a place that I had dreamt of visiting since I was a child when it was known as Wankie Game Reserve. There are reportedly 30,000 Elephants that roam through Botswana and into Hwange following their ancient migration routes to fresh water. This is made possible by the absence of fences between the two countries.

The road is good so we make good time but nightfall is approaching and we decide to stop for the night at the first opportunity.

There are three rules about driving in the rural areas of Africa at night. 1. Don’t drive at night. 2. Don’t drive at night. 3. If in doubt refer to 1 and 2.

I have powerful spotlights fitted to the Landie which helps, but when you come across a black cow lying on a black tar road it is not easy to stop a vehicle in time, especially a 2.5 ton Defender.

At around 7pm we come across the Halfway House Hotel and even though, even in the dark, it looked as though it had seen better days we decided to stop.

It would probably battle to get a 1 Star grading but the staff were very helpful and go out of their way to find us their ‘best’ room which turned out to be No. 6.

There are two single beds with relatively clean linen, a shower and toilet and that is all we needed for the night so we unpacked and then go through to the bar to get a Zambezi Beer and if possible something to eat.

The difference between South Africa and the other African Countries is that there is little violent crime outside of South Africa. Here we were two South Africans in a bar with only black Zimbabweans and we are welcomed and made to feel at home. Half a dozen of the local people come up to us and introduced themselves and listened to where we are from and where we were going.

The manager personally arranges Toasted Cheese and Tomato sandwiches for us and we drink our almost cold beers and enjoyed the company of the locals. We are on our second beer when the food arrives and although it is not quite what we are used to we enjoy it none the less.

The very helpful barman arranges for our meat to be put in the hotel freezer and promises that he will be up at 6am to give us some Ice and open the kitchen to get our meat.

Dog tired after a long days travel and with a full tummy we head back to our room and climb into bed. Within seconds we were fast asleep and in no time it is 5am and our alarm is going off. We shower wearing our Flip Flops, just in case, and by 6am we were packed and waiting at reception for our meat and Ice.

Did I mention that the R450.00 room rate includes morning Coffee?  The waitress arrives with a tray of Frisco Coffee which is Chicory rather than Coffee but good anyway. We put our now frozen meat that we had bought in Bulawayo into our fridge and pay US$ 5 for a block of Ice. No one said Zimbabwe is cheap.

DAY THREE

By 6:45am we were on the A8 again and on our way to Sinamatella Camp in Hwange.

The road was good and not very busy so we make good time. The turn off to Sinamatella is just before the town of Hwange and takes you past the Hwange Open Cast Coal Mine before entering the park.

We had been advised that we could not book in advance so at Sinamatella we make our way to the reception to pay our park fees and if possible get accommodation at the Manduva Dam picnic site. I had read on one of the forums that this was a good place to stay. It is only 14km from Sinamatella so nice and central.

We pay our park fees US$30 plus US$10 for the vehicle and US$50 per night to camp at Manduva Dam. As I said earlier Zimbabwe is not cheap. For our R415 per night we got a very basic outside shower, toilets and water for washing and drinking.

By mid day we have set up our camp site and are making some real Coffee and planning to relax for the rest of the day. We had travelled 1861km since leaving home and deserve a rest.

At 4:30pm we head out for a drive but don’t see much, just Warthog and Zebra. From the road we can see a Park’s vehicle and some staff members fishing. In SA this would not be allowed but this is Zimbabwe. When we returned to the campsite Raphael the camp attendant and one of the fishermen comes to introduce himself and tell us that he has fired up the donkey boiler so we will have hot water to shower before dinner.

We put up the new roof top tent without any problems and then take some beers and go down to the Boma overlooking the dam to watch the sun go down. It was a beautiful evening and after a long trip it is amazing to be back in the wild.

Home for the next few days, just need to set up camp

On returning to our campsite we discovered that we have left some of our supplies in the fridge in our garage at home, so we had to do without Cheese and Eggs for the next few days. We had broken our own rule; that you always store everything together, because it is very easy to make mistakes when you are half asleep and rushing to get going early in the morning.

Had we noticed earlier we could have stocked up at Bulawayo but the shop at Sinamatella is very basic and only has a few tinned items.

All set up

For now we have plenty of cold beer and wine, so all is not lost.

We make a fire and cook some Boerewors which we enjoy on a bread roll. While I am cooking an army of huge Ants comes out of a hole in the wall in single file and I have to be very careful not to stand on them. A little later Karen almost stands on one and breaks her Flip Flop while doing an evasive dance.

We end up having quite a few drinks and a most enjoyable first evening, deep in the African Bush.

After dinner we turn in early and have our first nights sleep ‘aboard’ the Landie with the sound of Hippo’s grunting in the distance. The tent is very comfortable and spacious and the evening breeze keeps us cool. I wake up during the night to the call of a Lion off in the distance and then dozed off again feeling very content with life.

DAY FOUR

We wake up around 6am with the sun well up and the birds making a racket in the trees around us. I get up to put the kettle on for some coffee and shortly after Karen climbs down the ladder and heads off to brush her teeth.

It is a beautiful hot morning and the bird life in the camp is amazing. Out on the dam the Hippo are grunting to one another and the temperature is already in the mid thirties as I prepared breakfast. Bacon without eggs but it is still good.

Crested Barbett visitor

Our fellow campers are Maeve’s Starling, Redwing Starling, Dassies (Rock Hyrax) and Tree Squirrels and they all invite themselves and their friends to breakfast at the Hagen’s campsite.

We had decided to take it easy today and just relax in camp and enjoy the ‘local’ wildlife. At lunch time we stroll down to the Boma, at the dam and enjoy a cold beer. We are still using the Ice we bought at Half Way House Hotel which is not going to last for much longer. We are hoping that we might get some more Ice at Sinamatella Camp.

After lunch we enjoy an afternoon siesta as the temperature is now in the upper thirties. I then have a cold shower to cool off and sit watching a Cardinal Woodpecker feeding in a Euphorbia tree while the Hippo’s call to one another across the water and the Dassies climb the trees looking for tasty leaves to eat.

As the sun disappeared over the dam in a blaze of orange we enjoy sundowners with the last of the cold beers and then back to camp for a chicken salad dinner.

During dinner I don’t see the line of Army ants leaving their burrow and I accidently stand on one. He punishes me with a bite on the arch of my foot that is still painful a week later.

By 10pm we are in bed and seconds later fast asleep.

DAY FIVE

We wake up to a disaster.

A water pipe in the ladies toilet has come undone and the floor is underwater. The resulting loss of water has emptied the storage tank and now we only have drinking water. We can’t risk using our drinking water to shower and Raphael informs us that the pump is broken so he can’t pump any more water into the tank. He is also being picked up to go on days off so he promises to report our dilemma at Sinamatella Camp on his way out.

His replacement will be here tomorrow and hopefully will bring spares for the pump and tape for the pipe.

We enjoy Coffee and Breakfast with the Starlings and have a visit from a Crested Barbet, one of my favorite birds. After breakfast we decide to pack up the Roof Top Tent and drive to Sinamatella to see if they have Ice and we can make sure that they know about the lack of shower and toilet water at Mandavu Picnic Site.

On the way we see Giraffe, Zebra, Ground Hornbill and a huge solitary Bull Elephant. While we are photographing the Ground Hornbill we can hear a Lion calling but are unable to find the source.

The only Ele we saw in Hwangwe but what tusks he has

At Sinamatella we report the water issue and discover that not only will we be doing without water but Ice as well. Warm beer is not the ideal situation.

Back at camp we set up the Roof Top Tent again and I have a snooze while Karen is reading her book. There is a lovely cool breeze coming off the water and as usual the Hippo’s are conversing with each other across the water.

Sundowners unfortunately consisted of warm beers, but what the hell we enjoyed them anyway. The setting is so perfect and it is just so good to be in the wilderness of Africa. A family of six from Harare arrives and we sit chatting to them and drinking our warm beer feeling slightly resentful that theirs are cold. However the sun setting over the dam is so spectacular that we enjoy the beers anyway.

Tomorrow morning we will be leaving Hwange for Livingston in Zambia where we will trade our tent for some luxury accommodation at the David Livingston Safari Lodge.

We have a quiet dinner and then sit staring into the flickering light from our fire and listening to the night sounds for the last time in Hwange.

DAY SIX

We are up shortly after sunrise and it takes us two hours to pack up the tents and then pack the Landie for the trip to Zambia.

No one has arrived to fix the water problem so we use the last of the camps drinking water to wash ourselves. The real problem is the toilets. People pop in during the day to visit the picnic site and invariably want to go to the toilet while they are there. By now you can imagine the extent of the problem especially since the ambient temperature is in the upper thirties.

We drive past Sinamatella Camp and then out of the park to the tar road where we turn off towards the town of Hwange. The last stretch is a nightmare as these huge trucks laden with coal are racing along the gravel road to get their cargo to the railway station.

We are very grateful to arrive safely at the neat and tidy town of Hwange where we find a take away ‘restaurant’ where Karen organizes some toasted sandwiches and a couple of ice cold drinks. Now when I say restaurant I mean this in the broadest definition of the word. Their version of a toasted sandwich was some sliced cheese and tomato between two slices of toast. However the flavor of the freshly grown Tomato is unbelievable and we enjoyed them immensely.

It is very sad to see how many delivery trucks there are with Chinese writing on their sides and there are several Chinese shops in the town. The Chinese are building roads and rail lines all through Africa in return for the continents immense mineral wealth.

The road to Victoria Falls is good and the traffic not too heavy. Every now and then we see evidence of the old strip roads which were simply two strips of tar and if a vehicle approached from the opposite direction one vehicle had to get off the road to let the other pass. When I was a child growing up in Kitwe in Zambia my parents would drive my sister and I to Durban for a holiday every year. The trip to Durban took four days because of the strip roads in Zambia and Zimbabwe.

We arrive at Victoria Falls at 12:30pm and drive straight through to the border post into Zambia. The border is full of youngsters from all over the world making their way to the Bungee Jump on the bridge. Karen and I did the 110m jump in 2006 so we know what they have to look forward to.

The Zimbabwe side is easy but on the Zambian side we need Kwacha’s and have to buy them from one of the currency traders operating at the border post.

To get ourselves and the Landie into Zambia we have to pay K150,000 entry fee then K116,000 third party insurance as well as US$20 for Carbon Tax. If you take into account that the exchange rate was half of what even the hotel offered then entrance into Zambia cost around R1,000 compared to R115 into Botswana and R415 into Zimbabwe.

To add insult to injury a self appointed Baboon Guard who apparently had prevented the local Baboons from raiding the Landie demanded US$5 for doing so. Arguing that there was no way that a Baboon could get into the Landie and I did not therefore need his services I gave him US$2 and told him to go away.

Border formalities completed we drive into Livingston expecting the Lodge to be well sign posted but eventually have to ask a petrol attendant for directions. We arrive just after 2pm and book into our lovely air conditioned room for the next four nights.

Clean cotton sheets, air conditioning and running water, what a treat. We have a quick shower to wash off the Hwange dust and then head for the pool. The water is blissfully cool and so we take the opportunity to introduce ourselves to the local beer – Mosi Lager.  This is short for Mosi-Au-Tunya or the Smoke That Thunders which is the local name for the Victoria Falls.

We spend the rest of the afternoon in the pool where we meet a Canadian family consisting of the grand parents, their daughter and her husband with their two children. They are at the end of a trip to the Delta and Kasane in Botswana. They are staying another night then flying out from Livingston back to Johannesburg and then home to Canada.

Relaxing at the David Livingstone Safari Lodge pool

Around 5pm we head back to our blissfully cool room, shower and get dressed for dinner. We are really looking forward to sitting down and being served our dinner instead of having to cook for ourselves.

But first of all we stop off on the deck overlooking the Zambezi and sipping Gin and Tonics we watch the Lady Livingstone arriving back from the sunset cruise and as the sun dips behind the Zimbabwe side of the river we took pictures and drank Gin and Tonics.

The view from our room

Then to the restaurant for dinner. I settled on a Chicken dish and Karen decided to have the local Bream. The Chicken was good but the Bream was a whole fish head and all and very bony.

However the day was saved by a bottle of Obikwa Merlot all the way from Stellenbosch in the Cape. At R285 a bottle it was not cheap but it had travelled a long way to be with us.

We were tired so we turned in early.

DAY SEVEN

We have a simple formula for relaxing when we go away. Spend the first few days in the bush far from civilization which forces you to forget about work and fast tracks the process of timing out. Then spend a few days doing nothing in particular and within a week you feel as though you have been away for a month.

With this in mind we decided to spend the day at the pool reading and enjoying the setting overlooking the beautiful Zambezi River.

We got up a little later than usual and went to breakfast a little after 8am. Breakfast is served in the restaurant which is up a flight of stairs and offers wonderful views of the gardens and the river. They have an amazing spread with almost everything you could imagine. We settled for some fruit juice, lots of coffee and eggs and bacon.

We had a very relaxing day at the pool with a few Mosi’s and a toasted sandwich for lunch and then a short afternoon nap.

At 4pm we were dressed and ready for the sundowner cruise on the Lady Livingston. The boat has three levels and the cruise takes one up the river to have sundowners and watch the sun dip below the horizon on the Zimbabwe side, returning back to the hotel just as it begins to get dark.

Lady Livingstone Zambezi Sunset Cruise

The Lady Livingstone

Nothing beats a G&T sundowner on the Zambezi

We found a spot on the top deck behind the Skipper and had a very enjoyable cruise on one of Africa’s great rivers. As we sat sipping our Gin and Tonics we listened to the conversation of a group of Russians, an Italian family and a young British couple, probably on their Honeymoon.

Back on dry land we freshened up and then met the General Manager, Keith Rissik for a drink in the bar. Karen managed to break another pair of slops, the third already so she had to get another pair from the room.

We were joined by Steve Cormack one of the owners of the hotel with a water purification expert called Paul. They invited us to join them for dinner. This time Karen had the Pasta which she enjoyed immensely.

About 11pm we made our way to bed after stopping at the bar for an Amarula nightcap.

DAY EIGHT

We are both a little hung over this morning so only make it down to breakfast around 9:30am. After a great breakfast with plenty of strong coffee we make our way down to the pool for a swim.

It was very hot and we ended up staying at the pool then heading back to our room around 3pm for a siesta and some fun with shadows.

We shower and then make our way down to the deck to watch the sun set with the now mandatory Gin and Tonic. Dinner is an outside Braai tonight so we find a table overlooking the moonlit river and enjoy a wonderful meal complimented by another bottle of Obikwa Merlot and a Jack Daniels on ice nightcap before heading for bed.

DAY NINE

Another morning sleep in so by the time we have showered it is 9:30 as we head down to breakfast.

Today we are feeling really chilled out so we have a leisurely breakfast and then visit the gift shop and buy a few things for the folks back home.

Back at the pool we contemplate taking part in some of the activities. The problem is that this is our third trip and my fourth to the area so we have done all the really interesting activities and quite frankly since my first trip to Victoria Falls in 2001 the prices have gone through the roof. The average cost of an activity is US$145 so we decide to save our Dollars and rather use them for cruises on the Chobe River where the game viewing is much better than the Zambezi.

The rest of the day is spent swimming drinking Mosi Lager, snoozing and then Gin and Tonics to see the sun to bed across the great Zambezi River.

Karen is very impressed that the hotel is using Parasols and table lamps that she supplied and they look great.

We enjoy a quiet dinner with just a touch too much wine and then earlyish to bed after a bit of posing behind the mosquito net.

DAY TEN

We were up early because we had to drive back through the border to Zimbabwe then 80km to the Kazangula border post and into Botswana. We were heading for Chobe Safari Lodge where we would be camping for the next four nights.

We had a good last breakfast and then went down to say goodby to Goodman who introduced us to his wife of only a few months Gwendolyn. Then a quick thank you and goodbye to Keith and his amazing team.

 By 9am we are once again on the road and went through both the Zambian and Zimbabwe customs without incident.

Karen bought me a Copper bangle from a street vendor at the Zambian border post. I already have one which I bought on the bridge in 2006 after we did the Bungi Jump.

Driving through Victoria Falls we saw a petrol station and decided to top up our tanks. Unfortunately no Diesel or Petrol in Victoria Falls. Welcome to Africa. We stopped at the Information Bureau to get directions to Kazangula and were soon on the road out of town.

The road is good and after a 45min drive we arrive at the border and clear customs in Zimbabwe and then Botswana. The last obstacle is to stand on a wet mat to combat Foot and Mouth disease. Can you believe it? Karen manages to break another sandal. The Landie has to drive through a trough of chemical but then we are through and on our way to Kasane and our campsite.

It is just a short drive to the town and Chobe Safari lodge is situated at the end of town bordering the Chobe National Park. We check in at reception, I had already paid and then drive to campsite 22. At the gate we are met by the camp attendant who takes us to 22 but it is not a very good site. He recommends we take 13 which has river frontage and plenty of thick shade.

We stopped at the hotel to let them know that we had changed campsites, on our way to change some US$ for pula. At the First National Bank, Bureau de Change we are told that they only accept notes dated after 2000. Some of our $100 bills go back to 1996. The best part is that I got the Dollars from my bank in Kloof which is also First National Bank. Unbelievable as we now have several hundred dollars that we can’t exchange. This could be a problem as credit cards are not widely accepted outside the main Cities.

We went to the Kasane Spar and stocked up with meat, rolls, eggs, bacon and lots of Ice. On the way back to the Landie Karen bought a pair of Slops at a shoe shop.

Back at the camp site we set up the tent and Roof Top tent and unpacked our tables and chairs. We always attract attention because we are two people but we have two tents. The Camp Attendants always come and check that we don’t have any stowaways. The reason for two tents is that we keep our clothes in the ground tent and sleep in the RTT. It is much easier and gives us somewhere to put our stuff away when we go out.

Unpacking is thirsty work, especially during the mid afternoon, so we head down to the hotel pool for a swim and to re-introduce ourselves to an old friend, the local beer, St Louis.

The pool area at Chobe Safari Lodge

The Lodge is busy with plenty of children around but the water is cool and very refreshing.

Back at our camp site we meet our neighbors for the night. They are a couple from the Black-Forest region in Germany and have been on a self drive camping Safari through Namibia and Botswana. They have just arrived from Nata Lodge where we will be staying in a few days time.

We are visited by a troop of Banded Mongoose who scratch around in the sand for something to eat. There are babies as well and they are fun to watch. One even took a Salticrax biscuit from Karen’s hand.

The Chobe River is no more than five meters from our campsite and the Chobe National park fence is behind the Germans campsite. The Hippo’s are calling one another up and down the river and all the time Fish eagles are calling to one another. What a marvelous place to be.

Chobe Sunset

I make a fire and we cook some Boerewors which we enjoy on fresh bread rolls washed down with a glass of wine.

We have had an amazing holiday and are now relaxed and well rested and so we sit and chat for some time while listening to the calls of wild animals across the Chobe River before tuning in for the night.

DAY ELEVEN

We woke up early to a cacophony of bird calls coming from the trees around us. There is truly no better way to wake up than with the sound of the birds, Hippo’s and Fish eagles.

We took a long hot shower and then enjoyed a Bacon, Egg and Cheese roll. Washed down with lots of strong Coffee. What a great start to the day.

After breakfast we clean up and then spend some time watching the Vervet Monkeys playing near the water. The next minute one brazenly comes down from a tree and raids our bin-bag ripping it open and scattering litter all over our campsite.

They have security guards around the campsites and it seems that most of their work is to keep the monkeys away from the campers food.

We had decided to go on a boat cruise in the afternoon so we went down to the pool for a while and booked at the booking office.

We returned later with our camera gear and because we were early decided to have a drink at the bar. We were only half way through our beer when the wind came up and the heavens opened and the rain ripped leaves out of the trees it was so heavy.

Luckily we were under cover but we were worried about our campsite as the wind was howling. Hopefully we won’t get back to a flooded campsite.

As quickly as it started the clouds cleared and the rain was gone just in time for us to board the boat. I borrowed a pool towel to wrap my camera in just to be safe.

The cost of the cruise is R245 per person but it is well worth it. You can buy drinks and snacks from the bar on the boat and the ranger points out the local birdlife and animals along the way. The best part is that for a photographer it is great because there is water all around, no branches or blades of grass to get in the way.

The rain persisted intermittently during the three hour cruise and it got quite chilly when the wind came up. Karen was only wearing a T-Shirt and shorts and a kind passenger loaned her a shawl to put over her shoulders.

We encountered herds of Elephant feeding and drinking along the banks with some of the youngsters chasing one another and trumpeting loudly. There were also lots of Hippo both in the water and grazing along the banks with Cattle Egrets following them and snatching the insects they disturbed.

We saw White-winged Tern, African Darters, Red Letchwe, Water Buck, Buffallo, Crocodiles, Reed Cormorant and Carmine Bee-eaters as well as the several pairs of Fish Eagles sitting high up in trees along the bank.

On the way back we sat and watched the sun dipping towards the horizon over Namibia and toasted the occasion with a few St Louis. Neither rain nor wind could dampen our sheer delight to be back on the Chobe River, one of our favorite places in Botswana and indeed Africa.

We got back to camp just after 6pm and thankfully there was no flooding. Our Roof Top Tent was dry so we had a bed to sleep in that night. We just had to clean up all the dishcloths and some plastic plates and our coffee mugs that had been blown off the table and then wash the mud off them.

I made a fire and we cooked some Sirloin steaks that I had bought at the Spar. The meat was a beautiful dark red and was well marbled. I can honestly say that that was the best piece of meat that I have eaten in years. Scrumptiously tender and accompanied by a few glasses of wine it turned out to be the best meal of our trip.

With a very full tummy we climbed up the ladder and crawled into bed.

DAY TWELVE

We are awoken by the birds and Fish eagles up the river. Wow what a way to greet the day.

We showered and then prepared breakfast which as always we washed down with a few cups of coffee.

After breakfast we took a walk to the hotel and enquired about their afternoon game drives. The cost was P280 per person but we were worried about our cash as we had a few pre 2000 US$100 bills which the bank would not accept.

We had seen another Bureau de Change and so took a walk to see if they would take the older notes. To our relief the accepted them without a word and were far more efficient than the bank.

We stopped off at Choppies a supermarket in the same shopping complex and were pleasantly surprised to find that not only was it well stocked but that it was also spotlessly clean. Far cleaner than the Spar that we had visited the day before and within easy walking distance of the campsite.

We stocked up on a few items including a packet of Simba Mexican Chilli Potato Chips which are a favorite of mine and of course lots of Ice.

Back at camp we were visited by a Tree Squirrel and Arrow-marked Bablers. We also had a visit from our resident White-browed Robin Chat that popped in from time to time to see if we had anything to scavenge.

In Hwange we had boiled all our water before drinking it so we were running low on gas and had to use the fire for all our cooking. Not a real problem but the kettle boils faster on the gas. Unperterbed I knock up a great bush brunch on the fire and what the hell, we crack our first beer for the day at 11:30am. The beers were Ice cold and went down very well.

We put our costumes on and took a walk to the hotel where we paid for the afternoon game drive and then a swim. The pool deck is almost empty now as there are no children around. They had no doubt left because schools were starting up after the Christmas break in a few days time.

Karen was feeling daring and ordered a Kasane Sunset (the local version of a Tequila Sunrise) and I had my usual Gin and Tonic. I must admit I have acquired a taste for the G&T’s.

The game drive was departing at 3pm so we took a stroll back to the campsite to change and pick up our cameras. Along the way one of the grounds men pointed out a Green Mamba at the base of a tree. These are very poisonous snakes so we kept a respectful distance between ourselves and the snake.

The vehicle was full of foreign tourists but we were a little early and got good seats. It only took us 10min to get to the Chobe National Park Sudoku Gate where our ranger paid our fees and we entered the park.

Sudoku is the name of an Island in the Chobe River which both Botswana and Namibia laid claim to. Eventually the dispute was settled at the International Court at the Hague and Botswana was awarded the Island because the deepest cannel, judged to be the border was on the Namibian side.

 Within a few kilometers of the gate we came across an old kill with dozens of Vultures around it. There were White-backed Vultures, Hooded Vultures and the big Lappet-faced Vultures that were chasing the smaller Vultures off the bones.

A little further on we came across our first Elephant of the day browsing on the side of the dirt road. We stopped to watch the ranger reassuring the foreign tourists that an Elephant is extremely unlikely to attack a stationery vehicle. We followed the young male for a while and then moved on.

Driving alongside the river we came across a heard of eleven Giraffe. They are a little lighter in color to the Kruger Park Giraffes’. We also saw an Elephant having a mud bath and then a herd of Elephant with a young Elephant that must have been feeding with her Aunt because the vehicle startled her and she ran back to the safety of her mom.

The ranger spotted a lion tail at the base of a thick bush and so maneuvered the vehicle to a point where we could see her. She wasn’t happy about the vehicle and came out of hiding much to our delight. She then lay down on the side of the road.

After a while we set off for a spot where we could get out the vehicle and stretch our legs. Along the way we passed several more herds of Elephant but don’t stop.

Namibia across the Chobe River

We stop on a large sandy beach opposite Savannah Lodge which is in Namibia. We all get off and mill around the vehicle taking pictures for a while and then it is back on and off to the lodge. The trip back is a bit disappointing as we only see a troop of Banded Mongoose which we stop to watch for a while.

It is after 6pm when we get back to the Lodge but still very hot so we have a beer and a swim before heading back to our campsite. We have some new neighbors but they must be having dinner at the hotel because we don’t see them.

Sundowner time

Back at camp we light a fire and make dinner, toast the day with a few glasses of wine and then turn in for an early night.

DAY THIRTEEN

As usual we are awake as soon as it gets light so we tidy up the campsite and wash the dishes from the night before and then make a leisurely breakfast.

Yesterday a huge yellow truck full of young Over Landers arrived and they are now filtering back from the showers and packing up their tents and gear so we take our time.

The ablutions are in a bit of a mess so we decide to shower later and as the Over Landers are busy driving out we head for the pool for a swim. Along the way we come across a family of Warthogs outside one of the rooms. They have got hold of one of the housekeepers cleaning cloths and are having a great time playing Tug of War.

At the pool we order Toasted Chicken Mayonnaise sandwiches, they are delicious and the perfect accompaniment to a St Louis beer. We are contemplating a River Safari but meanwhile the rain clouds are building and the next minute the heavens open and the rain pelts down for about half an hour. We sit under cover in the bar and when it is all over we make our way back to the campsite to clean up again.

A quick tidy up and then we head for the showers which are now back to their usual spotless state. We had decided to have dinner at the hotel tonight so around six we are dressed and ready and on our way to the bar.

Even when camping a girl needs to look her best for dinner

We sit and watch a Giant Kingfisher and as the Sun dips below the Namibian horizon Karen sips a Pena Colada and I enjoy my usual G&T.

Dinner is a buffet with stations where you can get just about every type of food imaginable. With a bottle of Arniston Merlot and the tip the bill is only P500 which is very reasonable. Great value for money.

After dinner we make our way back to camp with a few stumbles along the way and then as if we hadn’t had enough to drink already we had a nightcap or two before bed.

It had been a fantastic evening and indeed our whole stay at Chobe Safari Lodge had been special but unfortunately tomorrow we would be making our way South to Nata Lodge and then home.

DAY FOURTEEN

We were awake early and immediately started breaking up our camp. Everything was still wet from the rain the previous afternoon which made it a messy business.

I had everything packed away including the Mexican Chili Chips that I stashed between the seats as a snack for the long road ahead.

Unbeknown to me a Vervet Monkey must have been sitting in the tree above observing my movements. I made the mistake of leaving the back passenger door open while I went to the other side of the vehicle. In an instant the monkey was in the car and made off with the packet of chips. The little ba!%#$& sat himself down in the campsite behind and began eating MY chips. However I had the last laugh because he began stuffing chips into his mouth and then after the first few his actions slowed down and as the Chili took effect he abandoned the bag and headed for the tree. Serves him right, the little thief!

We had just finished showering and were just about to leave when a huge Warthog came to visit. We had seen him before along the path to the hotel but now he was only a meter or so away and we weren’t sure whether he was tame or not. He was a big boy with impressive tusks so we played safe and gave him a wide berth.

It was 9am before we were on our way through Kasane, we then turned onto the road to Nata. We made a quick stop at the Engen filling station to fill the tanks with Diesel. Luckily Karen managed to buy some sandwiches for breakfast and then we hit the 295km road ahead.

The road between Kasane and Nata is busy being upgraded so we travelled on a mixture of new tar road, gravel road and the old road. We arrived at Nata Lodge just after 1pm and after checking into Safari Tent No. 1 we unpacked and then headed for the pool to cool off.

Our Tented Accommodation at Nata Lodge

We enjoyed some very good Toasted Chicken Mayonnaise sandwiches in the bar with a few St Louis to keep them company and then had a refreshing swim. Storm clouds were gathering as we walked back to our Safari Tent and minutes later there was lightning and thunder but no rain. It was very hot so we had a short siesta with the fan on full.

After our nap we showered in the outside shower and dressed for dinner. We stopped off at the bar and got talking to a Mike a mining consultant who was working at a mine near by. He was staying the night just to have a break. The mine is 160km from Francistown where he lives so he commutes 320km a day too and from work.

The restaurant at Nata Lodge is spacious and their A’ La Carte menu is quite adequate. We took a fancy to the Tall Horse Merlot which has its cellars in Wellington in the Cape.

During dinner we heard some little ‘meows’ and discovered the resident Cat had a batch of kittens. Mom soon realized that we were a soft target and soon had Karen giving away half her meal.

The resident cat and kittens

Wine loving moths

The local wine drinking moths were out in force and no doubt there were a few sore (moth) heads in the morning.

After dinner I had a Jack on Ice and Karen had an Amarula on crushed Ice then off to bed.

DAY FIFTEEN

We were up early, showered and shaved and ready to go to breakfast when I discovered that the door lock was broken and we were effectively locked in our tent. I had to scramble over the back of the shower and managed to do so without injury. After that I was able to open the door from the outside.

We reported the maintenance problem at reception and then enjoyed a good breakfast with a few extra pieces of bacon for the Cats. Then back to our tent where maintenance team were replacing the lock.

We stayed at the Nata Bird Sanctuary campsite in 2007 and decided to spend the day at Sowa Pan which is in the sanctuary. It is a beautifully desolate place where we had really enjoyed the time spent there.

We camped under this Baobab in 2007

The sanctuary entrance is only 8km from the Lodge and it costs us P55 each and P15 for the car. We first drive to our old campsite which was under a young Baobab. I park under this beautiful tree and take a few pics before we head off across the pan to the raised look out deck.

Sowa Pan

Water very low this year

The view platform at Nata Bird Sanctuary - Sowa Pan

We park next to the deck and then take a long walk across the pan where the water is much lower than the last time we visited. There are green and white stones on the pans as we walk and in the distance wading in the water Lesser Flamingo and Spoonbills.

When we get back two hours later we spend another few hours just sitting on the deck and enjoying the solitude. We don’t see another human being which is just fine.

We then go for a drive to look for more birds in the heat of the day and take a few pics of the Landie on the Pans. Karen decides to drive Linyanti for the first time and I make a short video of her doing so.

We then drive out of the sanctuary to the town of Nata where we pop into the convenience store to stock up on some cold drinks, bottled water and Ice.

Back at the Lodge we have lunch and a few St Louis then into the pool for a swim as it is blisteringly hot. The water is tepid but still refreshing. After that it is back to the tent for an afternoon nap and then to dinner at around 7pm.

Nata Lodge Pool area

Late afternoon refreshment - St Louis

Karen specially orders the T Bone Steak so that the mom Cat can get her share. I have Tagliatelle Alfredo, both meals are devine and of course we have to share our Tall Horse Merlot with the wine guzzling moths.

By 9:30pm we are in bed a bit sunburned from our walk on Sowa Pan and worn out from the heat.

DAY SIXTEEN

The problem with sleeping inside a Safari Tent as opposed to a Roof Top Tent is that it is much easier to sleep later so we only wake up around 8am.

Karen has blisters on her back from Sowa Pan and so will have to stay out of the sun for the next few days.

We have a slow breakfast making sure that the cats get a bit of meat to nibble on and then to the well stocked Gift Shop where we buy a few gifts for each other and the people back home. We also use the Lodges Internet Café to do a bit of banking and check E-mails.

We are keen to drive to Kabu Island but the staff at the Lodge don’t think that it is a good idea and seem determined to encourage us to go with one of the local operators, no doubt at great cost. We eventually abandon the idea and looking at the map we decide to take a drive to a lookout point further down Sowa Pan.

We drive into the conservancy area at Sowa and there in front of us is a massive Soda Ash Mine which we pass and then drive across a very flat area covered in grass which I guess was the Pan. We passed a few herds of rather skittish Wildebeest with lots of babies and enjoyed watching a Northern Black Korhaan which took flight with a shrill call.

Karen drove back to the Lodge from the Pan and then to the bar where we enjoyed a cold beer and some lunch. Well actually I opt for an extra beer in lieu of lunch.

The shop at Nata Lodge

There are some Speckled Rock Pigeons feeding at the Lodge and one of the guides informs us that they without and rocky ledges to breed on they have adapted to nesting in the roofs of the chalets around the Lodge.

Bushbaby Basin in the Bar Toilet

After a swim and an afternoon nap we are once again getting ready for dinner. A pre-dinner drink at the bar and then through to dinner with the cats and moths, then off to bed. We have a long drive home tomorrow.

DAY SEVENTEEN

We were up at 6am to pack for the 1,500km trip back to Durban. We had our last breakfast with the cats, settled our account and were on our way by 7:30am. The plan was to try and get as far as possible and then to find a place to stay over for the night.

We made a quick stop in Francistown to draw some cash from the ATM and fill the tanks. Diesel is much cheaper in Botswana than it is in South Africa even though it comes from the same refinery in Durban.

We cross the Limpopo River at Martin’s Drift on the Botswana side and then Groblers Bridge on the South African side. We got through both border posts in under half an hour, something of a record.

It is 1:30pm and we are back in SA and on the N11 again to Makopane. When we left Makopane on the way to Botswana it was a Sunday and New Years Day and so there was no one about. Today driving through it is a Monday and the streets are full of people. We stop off to fill up with fuel and buy some cold drinks for the road and are quickly back on the road again.

We arrive at Middelburg around 6pm and spot the Travel Lodge where we book a room for the night. We then find our way to the Spur which is very busy but we get a table and enjoy a meal. They must have a Monday Night special deal because it looks like the whole of Middelburg is there.

Back at the Travel Lodge our room is basic but clean and we are soon in bed and enjoy a good night’s sleep.

DAY EIGHTEEN

We are up early and by 7am we are on the road to Witbank. The road is a nightmare with pelting rain and dozens of huge trucks to deal with. We are very thankful to arrive safely and luckily spot the local Spur that is just opening its doors for breakfast. We enjoy a great breakfast with plenty of coffee and feeling much better we hit the road again.

We follow the N11 back towards the N3 at Bergville with plenty of stop-go’s after Newcastle. The stop-go’s slow us down as there is a 10 to 20 minute wait at each one and so we only reach the Ultra City on the N3 early in the afternoon. We top up with Diesel and stock up with cool drinks and then through Pietermaritzburg and onto Durban.

It is late afternoon by the time we arrive but as usual our dogs are extremely happy to see us and we are happy to see them.

Our camping gear is full of mud from Chobe so the next two days are spent washing drying and then storing away.

It was a fantastic trip and we thoroughly enjoyed our time in Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana, met some amazing people and managed to re-charge the batteries.

Distance travelled 4108km.

Till next time………