Irene, Vic Falls & Chobe Departing Durban @ 9h30 on the 31st of December (yes on New Year’s Eve) we arrived at Irene Country Lodge in Pretoria SA in time for lunch. This is a beautiful lodge, situated very near Pretoria in the village of Irene. Our room over-looked a peaceful lake with Ducks and Kingfishers. We saw in the new year and left for the airport early on the 1st of January with a bit of a “baabelas” – (SA term for hung over).Our flight to Vic Falls departed punctually at 10h00. Vic Falls airport is tiny, even by African standards, and has no aircon or for that matter any other luxuries. Our transfer to Chobe arrived a short while later and we were soon on our way. Arriving at the Botswana border post we had to be “dipped” against Foot & Mouth disease, this affecs cleft footed animals and is very contagious, the dipping consisted of just standing in a disinfectant for a few seconds.
Chobe We arrived after lunch at Chobe Marina Lodge, a lovely lodge overlooking the Chobe River and across the opposite bank Namibia. We spent the rest of the day lounging at the pool with “Larry the Lounge Lizzard”, a giant Water Monitor.
River-Cruise Departed on the River Boat at three in the afternoon, heading down the stunningly beautiful Chobe River. The south-west route to the Caprivi Strip, with Botswana on the one side and Namibia on the other.
It is here on a river cruise that one sees an amazing amount of wildlife. I guess this is because the animals do not feel threatened by the boats.
You are given snacks and refreshments on the cruise, but just a note here, the toilet is more like a port-a–pottie deigned for midgets only. Go before you go!
We saw many birds – for the serious birder this is truly a worthwhile trip. I will list a few:-
Longtoed Plover
Pied Kingfisher
Bluecheeked Bee-Eater
African Openbilled Stork
Redwinged (Collared) Pranticol
African Fish Eagle (the epitome of the African bush when it calls).
We also came across two crocs on the river bank with “pom-pom” Dragonflies – subsequently we found out that they were in fact Banded Groundlings.
Being an avid lover of elephants, I was blessed to see a huge heard – YEAH!!!!!!
On the way back we were bombarded by the lesser known “Kamikazi Namibian Swallow” – they are in fact Swallows, who build there nests in the tunnel of the twin hulled river boats. Thus appearing to fly through under the boat.
This is also serious Hippo country – we were mock charged by one of them. They live in pods of up to thirty animals and are often found in their own festering toilet “Jacuzzi”.
Six am wake-up Call Woken up at six to say we are missing the game drive, literally jumped up and into our bush gear, catching up to the main vehicle at the entrance to Chobe National Park. This is a huge park that has no fences, thus the migratory animals especialy the Elephants are free to roam. There is a great transfrontier initiative to drop all the fences leading up North into Namibia and Angola, to enable these animals, especially the great elephant herds to follow their natural paths. We saw plenty of “nut-flasher” Squirrels, a name given to them by Gavin and Brett – no need for any explanation.
Six am wake-up Call Woken up at six to say we are missing the game drive, literally jumped up and into our bush gear, catching up to the main vehicle at the entrance to Chobe National Park. This is a huge park that has no fences, thus the migratory animals especialy the Elephants are free to roam. There is a great transfrontier initiative to drop all the fences leading up North into Namibia and Angola, to enable these animals, especially the great elephant herds to follow their natural paths. We saw plenty of “nut-flasher” Squirrels, a name given to them by Gavin and Brett – no need for any explanation.
Here is some more of the wonderful bird life that we encountered on the drive:
Green Pigeon
Glossy Starling
White Throated Bee-eater
Pied Kingfisher
Grey Louries
African Fish Eagle
African Jacana
Openbilled Stork
Squacco Heron
White Backed Night Heron
Redbilled Hornbill
Redbilled Francolin
Spurwinged Geese
Egyptian Geese
Hadeda Ibis
Sacred Ibis
Hamerkop
Maribu Stork
European “kamikaze” Swallows
Lesser Masked Weavers
Lion tracks were seen at the one water hole, no sign of them, but we did see a sight, I had never seen before – Matabele Ants (great warriors) “Stinky” ants – marching across and blockading the road. “Stinky” as they apparently release a revolting smell when under attack, or so we were told.
Flame lilies (beautiful orchid-like flowers) not found in South Africa were also sighted.
Kazungula
We arrived at the ferry area – it is here where the Zambezi and Chobe Rivers meet, it is the confluence of the Namibian, Zambian and Botswana borders.
We stopped to have a picnic lunch under a Baobab tree. The legend surrounding these trees is that each animal had to plant a tree; every animal planted their trees the right way up. That is except for the Hyena, who at this point started laughing at his error, to this day the Hyena still laughs. Chobe National Park – Chobe meaning to push from the Zulu word “Shova” Met by the most heart-warming magnificent sight – this still brings tear to my eyes – a mother Lion with her cub – DOUBLE WOW!!!!!!!!!!!! Mom and babe were away from the pride with the little one still feeding off Mom and still a little wobbly legged.
Gavin must have taken a gazillion photographs here (you will soon read about the tragedy that followed). We did not want to make the Lioness too anxious, so we went off for a drive, only to be mock-charged by a cheeky “little” Ellie. The bird-life, as already mentioned, is prolific along the river. We went back to where we sighted the Lioness with her Cub, to find one of the most awesome and trusting moments (she trusted humans to let them look at her Cub – pity we humans constantly betray an animal’s trust). Mom and babe had come completely out of the bush and were posing for the cameras, it was as if this, one little Cub she had left, was her pride and joy.
This was an hour of pure awe. reading our journals brings back so many precious memories, realising once again how small we are in the scheme of things. I am so emotional about certain events, that I barely see the computer screen as tears course down my cheeks.
Kasane is the local town – meaning Water Fig (a big tree with a whitish bark) – the town is quite rural but in contrast it has a well stocked Spar Supermarket (almost felt like being back in SA).
We were due to leave the next day for Vic Falls in Zimbabwe. I make special note here of the staff at Chobe Marina Lodge, special and friendly people. I will never be able to have a sundowner again without thinking of this beautiful river with its’ spectacular sunsets!
Victoria Falls
Also known as Mosi un Tunya – the smoke that thunders. I quite prefer this poetic interpretation.
At Vic Fall Safari Lodge, we were met by “Joseph and his techni colour dreamcoat”, part of the total Vic Falls welcome experience.
The outlook from the pool-deck is that of a water pan and the African bush. One can just lie on this deck and observe most wildlife over a few beers.
As with most lodges, the thieving little Vervet monkeys arrived to scavenge what they could. One little guy stole two rolls and sped off into the rafters – big mouth for a little fellow. The Boma – “Place of Eating" Experience We were greeted with the traditional E-stylene drink – Chabuku Bear – UGH, YUK! (Get the picture?) We were also told we had to eat a traditional delicacy the Mopani worm – fear factor here we come. Not so bad, they are cooked (small consolation). They are nevertheless big hairy worms. Ate this “delicacy” and we got our certificates. To this day I think I am still spitting out the odd Mopani hair. A little aside here, Gavin my now wonderful husband, went back and had another three Mopani worms – Stupid, Red Wine or just because he was dared to? Who knows? We also ate Crocodile and Warthog with Chillies (this definitely cracked the nod as I am an avid Chilli eater). We then had a traditional drumming experience – really great fun. Upon leaving, the Witchdoctor threw the bones for us – no I am not making any disclosures – except to say that not much has transpired.
The Big Day of 1,2,3,4,5 Bungiiiiii!!!!!!! Words cannot explain this experience, as it is different for each person, and quite cathartic. Because of this we include some photos, to give those who have not jumped an insight into this experience. A special note to Shearwater and their amazing, special staff. If it was not for them constantly saying “OK Karen, all is fine Karen, you are safe Karen”, I may not have flown off the edge. Had dinner that night at the hotel, starving, Bungi must chew up a hundred million calories – possibly discovered a new diet – but not one for the faint-hearted!
Went to bed early for tomorrow was a meeting with my soul-animal, the mighty Elephant.
Elephant Expedition
At the time the two Elephant ride experiences were, and remain a highly emotional and hauntingly beautiful experience. Gavin and I have since had tremendous dialogue about the pros and cons of this practice. As a result of this I do not think I will ride an elephant again.
On the way to the Ellie sanctuary, spotted what we termed the “Reggae” Weavers as their nests are so shaggy and untidy. Actually called Whitebrowned Sparrow-Weavers.
Arrived at the sanctuary and spotted my boy straight away. I think I flew to be first in the queue. His name is Tusker and I have his footprint on my wall (the paper is made from elephant dung and has an ink print of his massive foot).
Rain could not detract from one of my greatest dreams – to get so close to these magnificent, gentle giants.
We were able to touch and feed Tusker. What a blessing that Tusker allowed us to experience this – Thank you Tusker.
What must always be remembered that this sort of thing is not a right but a privilege!
Went back to the hotel and sat on the balcony, drinking coffee to warm up. This is when one of the most devastating events occurred (referred to previously at the mom and cub scene) – all of our photos (about 600) were accidentally deleted from the CF card, including the Lioness and Cub. I think Gavin and I were shell-shocked, not believing what had just happened. (ALWAYS back-up your photos, you do not want this to happen). These were to remain memories in our heart and on paper alone. The Flight of Angels Managed to secure a seat next to the pilot (think Gavin just pushed me forward, as I have never been in a helicopter). The foot section was totally clear, so one could get a real bird’s-eye, angel’s view. The helicopter flip took us over Mosi un Tunya – Vic Falls, each section of the falls has a different name – Devil’s Cataract, Main Falls, Angel Falls, Stanley’s Island and Horse-shoe Falls.
Flew over Vic Falls bridge, and it is only from this perspective, that one realises, just how high the Bungi is! The flight landed and clocked at exactly 11 minutes and 42 seconds, the flights can be no longer than 12 minutes. Return to the Boma Mr braveheart himself, my darling Gav, chomped two chewy, giant Mopani worms – selected by mwa – I sort of thought, at this point, if he was willing to do this for me, he was not such a bad “oke” The drumming was once again amazing; we both had our faces painted – Gav as a mighty Tsonga warrior.
Surprise wake up call!
Woken up in the middle of the night, by what I thought was an incorrect wake up call!
To my absolute delight, Gav had arranged another Elephant outing (he was definitely scoring points)
Hardly waited and was first in line to get on Domo – (the Elephants alternate and are rested between rides at least a day at a time).
It is amazing how different their personalities are! Domo loves to stop and eat but definitely was not going to let any of the others ahead, as he felt he was the leader. One feels so safe as the Elephant are so sure-footed. Domo – the Elephant Gav and I were given the opportunity to really interact with this cheeky and confident boy! He has such wise eyes with long eye-lashes. His tongue and inner lips are so soft – yes I did put my whole hand on his tongue – he was quite cool about this. We then wanted to sit on his knee and have a ”snap” taken, he gave us a gentle nudge as if to say – “hey dudes, one at a time” All the Elephant are named after their care giver or the area in which they are found.
Epilogue This may be the end of this adventure, but the beginning of many others, as we have developed such a passion for Africa and God’s creations.
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