CHOBE NATIONAL PARK – OUR FIRST TRIP

It has always been my dream, since I was a child, to visit Botswana and the famous Okavango Delta in particular. Karen and I had been talking about a Botswana trip since we met in 2005 and realized that we shared the same dream. At last we were about to get our chance.

When the opportunity arose to visit the magnificent Chobe National Park, world renowned for its diversity of game and abundant Elephant population, we jumped at the chance. The game viewing from the riverboats is legendary and this is one of the few places where one can confidently expect to view Lechwe and Puku antelope, which favor the floodplains and seasonal marshland areas in Botswana and Zambia.

It was partly-overcast and a warm 25 degrees as we disembarked from our British Airways flight at Victoria Falls International Airport. The flight from Johannesburg takes a comfortable hour and a half and as we came into land we glimpsed the magnificent “Mozi au Tunda” or as we commonly know it Victoria Falls.

Our transfer partner in Zimbabwe was Wild Horizons and their friendly driver Paul was waiting for us with a warm Zimbabwean welcome as we came through from customs into the arrivals hall.

We were soon driving through the lush bushveld terrain en route to Victoria Falls and then onto Kazungula, the Botswana border, where we cleared immigration and customs 50 minutes later.

We then walked across the border to our awaiting African Odyssey transfer. The drive to Kasane is a mere 15 minutes from the border and along the way we were entertained with sightings of Green Pigeon and Bluecheeked Bee Eater as well as several herds of Impala. Our guide Richard went to great lengths to tell us about his wonderful country and all the activities that we could expect to participate in.

Botswana Is often described as one of the last unspoiled areas of Africa. It is a land of contrasts, with two thirds of the country occupied by the Kgadikgadi, a vast semi-desert area where stunted trees and scattered bushveld survive in an often hostile environment. In the northeast the higher rainfall supports stretches of deciduous forest and this is where the Chobe National Park is situated.

Kasane is a typical African village with a Spar, several Bureau de Change, some shops and two restaurants. The restaurants are interestingly called The Old Bank and the Old House. No doubt named after their previous occupants. There are also several luxury game lodges strategically positioned along the Chobe Riverbank.

Driving into Chobe Marina Lodge, with its arched entrance, magnificent thatch roof and lush tropical vegetation we could hardly wait to get our first glimpse of the legendary Chobe River.

Check in was friendly and efficient and as soon as our bags were stored in our spacious room we hurried down past the pool deck, onto a viewing deck overlooking the river.

The Chobe River has its source in Angola and is a magnificent body of water, full of the famous Tiger fish, Vundu Barble as well as tasty Bream and Three Spot Talapia. The Chobe converges with the mighty Zambezi close to Kasungula, where we entered the country, and where Botswana, Zambia and Namibia meet. Both rivers flood every year in March and April, three months after the heavy rains at their source in the mountains of central Angola.

It was now 3pm and as we looked over the river a flat-decked riverboat filled with guests was just leaving the jetty on the afternoon river safari. We decided that tomorrow we would be joining them and gravitated to the pool bar to enjoy a few of the local St Louis beers. The beer is pale in color and served ice cold in frosted glasses they were made extra enjoyable by the calls of Fish Eagle and Kingfisher across the river. What better way to start our weeklong adventure?

As the sun began to descend on the Namibian side of the river we positioned ourselves on the deck outside the Riverside bar and watched the sun set. What a magnificent spectacle this is. The sunsets although different every evening, are truly spectacular. The reflection on the mirrored surface of the river and the lightning far away over Namibia adds additional drama to the scene. One can easily be absorbed into the sheer splendor of the occasion and lose oneself with thoughts of Africa and how you would be happy to spend the remainder of your life lost in this soul rejuvenating experience.


CHOBE MARINA LODGE

The lodge is a landmark wood and thatch structure, double story, with an imposing double volume reception area and viewing decks overlooking the river all around. Commissioner’s restaurant, as well as several well-appointed conference rooms, dominates the top level. There are two bars. The pool bar opens at 10am and remains open until the Riverside bar opens at 4pm. Both are well stocked and staffed by competent, friendly and well-trained barmen. A light lunch menu is available at the pool or a buffet spread can be enjoyed in the Mokoros restaurant. This is particularly popular with visiting tour groups returning from the morning river safari at around midday.

Dinner is served in either the elegant Commissioner’s restaurant on the upper deck, where a different a’ la Carte menu is served every evening, or in the Mokoros restaurant named after the hollowed out tree trunks that the locals fashion into canoes. The Mokoros serves a Pan African buffet with a variety of delicious starters and main courses including tender Botswana steaks cooked to order over an open Braai. The selection of deserts is outstanding if you have space after the sumptuous main course.

We dined at both and the food is excellent. However the ultimate dining experience is to be had on the open deck under the stars and overlooking the river. The staff will gladly set a private dinner table with your choice of menu and the two evenings that we enjoyed in this manner will never be forgotten. Not only because the meal was so good, but also, there cannot be a better venue in Africa to dine under the stars and toast the fabulous sunset. The lodge has a comprehensive wine list of South African wines and also serves a very good wine by the glass. For a night cap it’s back to the Riverside bar and then tummy full and bone weary off to bed.

Our accommodation at Chobe Marina Lodge was both spacious and functional with a private deck to relax on and admire the view, mini bar fridge and king size bed sheathed in a protective crisp white mosquito net to keep out those irritating culicidae. The bathroom is well appointed with a glass shower, toilet and vanity with a hand painted basin reflecting the local colors and artwork. There is also a TV in the room with a variety of channels, although we never turned it on. To ensure a good nights sleep the ultimate luxury in Africa……whisper quiet air conditioning.



If one is not setting off on the 6am game drive to Chobe National Park, then a leisurely breakfast can be enjoyed from 7am until 10am. Breakfast is buffet style with eggs to order and is served either in the Mokoros restaurant or on its deck overlooking a beautiful waterfall that cascades under the deck and into a pond, before flowing down to the river below.

During one breakfast we were visited by a troop of Vervet Monkeys, keen to steal a slice of toast or tidbit off the table of an unsuspecting guest. I must add, much to the annoyance of the staff. One was even so bold as to throw the indigenous leaves and flowers out of a table vase and proceeded to drink the water. Sitting on the table as if it had been especially reserved for his visit. In this position it is obvious why they are commonly know as blue monkeys. He had bright blue oversized testes, indeed a tribute to his manhood. Sadly one of the young Vervets had his arm amputated at the wrist. One can only ponder how this misfortune could have happened, perhaps a Crocodile or a poacher’s snare. However I am glad to report that his wound had long ago healed and despite his handicap he managed remarkably well. Jumping from branch to branch as only the incredibly agile Vervet’s can do. I am told that the lodge-staff have affectionately named him Tripod.

A Giant Kingfisher, who used the opportunity to dry off under the canopy of a wild fig, always keeping an eye out for a small fish below, also regularly visited us. We also saw an African Finfoot in the pond and every morning were joined by three Spotted Necked Otters that swam over from the Namibian side of the river to fish in the inlet below the waterfall. They masterfully herded the Three Spot Talapia into the shallows and never went hungry.

Marina Lodge boasts a beautiful swimming pool that deceivingly looks as though it drops off the rim straight into the river below, as well as a kiddie’s pool for the youngsters. This is where the guests while away the hours, reading a book, soaking up the sunshine, chatting to one another or just sitting and staring out over the river during the warmer hours of the day. Once again there are the locals in the form of two Water Monitors that either sun themselves nearby, or slither between the tables, their long fork tongues seeking out any scrap of food that might have fallen off a plate. We promptly named them Larry and Junior - the Pool Lizards.




ACTIVITIES

African Odyssey provides a wide range of top class activities for guests. These include: morning and afternoon game drives in open 4x4 vehicles; morning and afternoon river safaris; Tiger fishing on the river; day trips to Victoria Falls, 70km away where one can white water raft or for the brave of heart, Bungi Jump from the bridge over the Zambezi gorge.



One can also self drive in the Chobe National Park (4x4 only) or visit the ferry which links Botswana, Namibia and Zambia at Kazungulu. There are also the Magadikgadi saltpans, a day trip away, where one can view thousands of Flamingo or simply drive to the Namibian border at Ngoma Bridge on the tarred road through the park where there is every likelihood of sighting herds of Elephant grazing along the roadside. There is also the nearby Kasane Forest Reserve to be explored.

We were fortunate enough to enjoy a morning game drive into the Chobe National Park where we sighted a pride of seven Lion lazing in the morning light, two of them sporting tracking collars to monitor their movement. We were also privileged enough to spent the best part of an hour photographing a young Lioness playing with her solitary six-week old cub. Less than 20 meters away. There were also sightings of Letchwe, Puku, abundant Elephant, Crocodile, Hippo and Fish Eagle as well as Warthog, Kudu, Slender Tail Mongoose and the list of bird life is endless. I can honestly say that I have never seen so much game in such a short space of time.


However in my opinion the ultimate game viewing experience is on the river safari. We did two of these and were richly rewarded both times with totally different experiences. The Elephant, Hippo and Crocs are amazingly comfortable with the riverboats and allowed our experienced guide and driver to get within meters of them. So close in fact that my 300mm camera lens was way too long and I had to zoom down to 70-200mm.


We spent some time observing a pod of Hippo with several babies and a magnificent old bull Elephant with both tusks broken off that swam to an island within meters of our boat. We also observed a young male Elephant repeatedly charging a group of male Kudu, much to their bemusement and our enjoyment. Apart from the Elle’s the highlight for me was the majesty of the Fish Eagles. Perched on dead tree trunks along the river, or sitting on the waters edge they are one of Africa’s greatest raptors and all day long one could hear their unmistakable call reverberating up the river as they fished.


Botswana received its independence in September 1966. The capital is Gaberone, which is said to be one of Africa’s fastest growing cities. The Okavango Delta, together with the game reserves on the country’s northern border, provides most of Botswana’s tourist potential. The people are friendly and certainly the staff at Chobe Marina Lodge could not do enough to please. All the excursions operated by African Odyssey are professionally run with great care taken for safety and guest comfort. Prices are affordable even though the Botswana Pula is stronger than the SA Rand.

It was with a heavy heart that we reluctantly departed Chobe, on our way back to Victoria Falls for the ultimate adrenalin rush, the infamous Bungi jump.

However plans are already being made for a trip back to the Delta with a mandatory few days stop off at Chobe Marina Lodge. With the perfect mix of peace and tranquility and exceptional game and bird viewing opportunities, Chobe is indeed one of Africa’s last unspoiled havens and Marina Lodge and the fabulous management and staff, our home away from home.


TRAVEL INFO

Chobe is a malaria area and it is advisable to consult your family practitioner before traveling to the region. Be sure to pack some Peaceful Sleep or Tabard as Mosquitoes are always present in the evenings.

While the family sedan is ideal for the tarred roads (look out for potholes), if you are planning to venture into the parks a 4x4 is essential, as many of the dirt roads consist of thick river sand.

The Spar at Kasane is well stocked with all the provisions you might require and there is also a Bureau de Change opposite the entrance.

Chobe Marina Lodge has a curio shop where one can purchase gifts and curios. The African Odyssey office next door will efficiently handle both your transfers and any activities that you might wish to partake in.

The Lodge accepts all major credit cards. The local currency is the Botswana Pula.

The bird life is exceptional and one needs to take along a good birding reference book to appreciate the sheer abundance of bird life.


HOW TO GET THERE

There are scheduled SAA and British Airways flights daily into Victoria Falls out of Johannesburg International Airport, or one can fly directly to Kasane with Air Botswana from Johannesburg.
CHOBE MARINA LODGE

President Avenue, Chobe River Kasane, Private Bag K83, Kasane, Botswana. TEL: +267 625 2221. FAX: +267 625 2224. EMAIL: res1@chobemarinalodge.com WEBSITE: www.chobemarinalodge.com

OUR FIRST AFRICAN ADVENTURE - JOURNAL

Our African adventures started when we got together towards the end of of 2005. Our decision to start keeping a journal of our travels, was taken when I came across a journal, kept by Gavin and his son Brett on their trip in January of 2004 to Kruger National Park. All credit to this discovery, as we have truly discovered that photographs spark wonderful memories (a very necessary part of journal keeping) and the keeping of a journal helps one remember the finer details. This journal, will hopefully encourage others to record their adventures and invite the “non- bushwackers” to start journalising their own adventures.

Irene, Vic Falls & Chobe Departing Durban @ 9h30 on the 31st of December (yes on New Year’s Eve) we arrived at Irene Country Lodge in Pretoria SA in time for lunch. This is a beautiful lodge, situated very near Pretoria in the village of Irene. Our room over-looked a peaceful lake with Ducks and Kingfishers. We saw in the new year and left for the airport early on the 1st of January with a bit of a “baabelas” – (SA term for hung over).Our flight to Vic Falls departed punctually at 10h00. Vic Falls airport is tiny, even by African standards, and has no aircon or for that matter any other luxuries. Our transfer to Chobe arrived a short while later and we were soon on our way. Arriving at the Botswana border post we had to be “dipped” against Foot & Mouth disease, this affecs cleft footed animals and is very contagious, the dipping consisted of just standing in a disinfectant for a few seconds. 

Chobe We arrived after lunch at Chobe Marina Lodge, a lovely lodge overlooking the Chobe River and across the opposite bank Namibia. We spent the rest of the day lounging at the pool with “Larry the Lounge Lizzard”, a giant Water Monitor. 

River-Cruise Departed on the River Boat at three in the afternoon, heading down the stunningly beautiful Chobe River. The south-west route to the Caprivi Strip, with Botswana on the one side and Namibia on the other.

It is here on a river cruise that one sees an amazing amount of wildlife. I guess this is because the animals do not feel threatened by the boats.

You are given snacks and refreshments on the cruise, but just a note here, the toilet is more like a port-a–pottie deigned for midgets only. Go before you go! We saw many birds – for the serious birder this is truly a worthwhile trip. I will list a few:- Longtoed Plover Pied Kingfisher Bluecheeked Bee-Eater African Openbilled Stork Redwinged (Collared) Pranticol African Fish Eagle (the epitome of the African bush when it calls).

We also came across two crocs on the river bank with “pom-pom” Dragonflies – subsequently we found out that they were in fact Banded Groundlings. Being an avid lover of elephants, I was blessed to see a huge heard – YEAH!!!!!! On the way back we were bombarded by the lesser known “Kamikazi Namibian Swallow” – they are in fact Swallows, who build there nests in the tunnel of the twin hulled river boats. Thus appearing to fly through under the boat. This is also serious Hippo country – we were mock charged by one of them. They live in pods of up to thirty animals and are often found in their own festering toilet “Jacuzzi”. 

Six am wake-up Call Woken up at six to say we are missing the game drive, literally jumped up and into our bush gear, catching up to the main vehicle at the entrance to Chobe National Park. This is a huge park that has no fences, thus the migratory animals especialy the Elephants are free to roam. There is a great transfrontier initiative to drop all the fences leading up North into Namibia and Angola, to enable these animals, especially the great elephant herds to follow their natural paths. We saw plenty of “nut-flasher” Squirrels, a name given to them by Gavin and Brett – no need for any explanation.

Here is some more of the wonderful bird life that we encountered on the drive:

Green Pigeon Glossy Starling White Throated Bee-eater Pied Kingfisher Grey Louries African Fish Eagle African Jacana Openbilled Stork Squacco Heron White Backed Night Heron Redbilled Hornbill Redbilled Francolin Spurwinged Geese Egyptian Geese Hadeda Ibis Sacred Ibis Hamerkop Maribu Stork European “kamikaze” Swallows Lesser Masked Weavers Lion tracks were seen at the one water hole, no sign of them, but we did see a sight, I had never seen before – Matabele Ants (great warriors) “Stinky” ants – marching across and blockading the road. “Stinky” as they apparently release a revolting smell when under attack, or so we were told. Flame lilies (beautiful orchid-like flowers) not found in South Africa were also sighted.

Kazungula We arrived at the ferry area – it is here where the Zambezi and Chobe Rivers meet, it is the confluence of the Namibian, Zambian and Botswana borders. We stopped to have a picnic lunch under a Baobab tree. The legend surrounding these trees is that each animal had to plant a tree; every animal planted their trees the right way up. That is except for the Hyena, who at this point started laughing at his error, to this day the Hyena still laughs. 

 Chobe National Park – Chobe meaning to push from the Zulu word “Shova” Met by the most heart-warming magnificent sight – this still brings tear to my eyes – a mother Lion with her cub – DOUBLE WOW!!!!!!!!!!!! Mom and babe were away from the pride with the little one still feeding off Mom and still a little wobbly legged. 

Gavin must have taken a gazillion photographs here (you will soon read about the tragedy that followed). We did not want to make the Lioness too anxious, so we went off for a drive, only to be mock-charged by a cheeky “little” Ellie. The bird-life, as already mentioned, is prolific along the river. We went back to where we sighted the Lioness with her Cub, to find one of the most awesome and trusting moments (she trusted humans to let them look at her Cub – pity we humans constantly betray an animal’s trust). Mom and babe had come completely out of the bush and were posing for the cameras, it was as if this, one little Cub she had left, was her pride and joy. 

This was an hour of pure awe. reading our journals brings back so many precious memories, realising once again how small we are in the scheme of things. I am so emotional about certain events, that I barely see the computer screen as tears course down my cheeks. 

 Kasane is the local town – meaning Water Fig (a big tree with a whitish bark) – the town is quite rural but in contrast it has a well stocked Spar Supermarket (almost felt like being back in SA). 

 We were due to leave the next day for Vic Falls in Zimbabwe. I make special note here of the staff at Chobe Marina Lodge, special and friendly people. I will never be able to have a sundowner again without thinking of this beautiful river with its’ spectacular sunsets!

Victoria Falls Also known as Mosi un Tunya – the smoke that thunders. I quite prefer this poetic interpretation. At Vic Fall Safari Lodge, we were met by “Joseph and his techni colour dreamcoat”, part of the total Vic Falls welcome experience. The outlook from the pool-deck is that of a water pan and the African bush. One can just lie on this deck and observe most wildlife over a few beers. As with most lodges, the thieving little Vervet monkeys arrived to scavenge what they could. One little guy stole two rolls and sped off into the rafters – big mouth for a little fellow. 

The Boma – “Place of Eating" Experience We were greeted with the traditional E-stylene drink – Chabuku Bear – UGH, YUK! (Get the picture?) We were also told we had to eat a traditional delicacy the Mopani worm – fear factor here we come. Not so bad, they are cooked (small consolation). They are nevertheless big hairy worms. Ate this “delicacy” and we got our certificates. To this day I think I am still spitting out the odd Mopani hair. A little aside here, Gavin my now wonderful husband, went back and had another three Mopani worms – Stupid, Red Wine or just because he was dared to? Who knows? We also ate Crocodile and Warthog with Chillies (this definitely cracked the nod as I am an avid Chilli eater). We then had a traditional drumming experience – really great fun. Upon leaving, the Witchdoctor threw the bones for us – no I am not making any disclosures – except to say that not much has transpired.



The Big Day of 1,2,3,4,5 Bungiiiiii!!!!!!! Words cannot explain this experience, as it is different for each person, and quite cathartic. Because of this we include some photos, to give those who have not jumped an insight into this experience. A special note to Shearwater and their amazing, special staff. If it was not for them constantly saying “OK Karen, all is fine Karen, you are safe Karen”, I may not have flown off the edge. Had dinner that night at the hotel, starving, Bungi must chew up a hundred million calories – possibly discovered a new diet – but not one for the faint-hearted!

Went to bed early for tomorrow was a meeting with my soul-animal, the mighty Elephant. Elephant Expedition At the time the two Elephant ride experiences were, and remain a highly emotional and hauntingly beautiful experience. Gavin and I have since had tremendous dialogue about the pros and cons of this practice. As a result of this I do not think I will ride an elephant again. On the way to the Ellie sanctuary, spotted what we termed the “Reggae” Weavers as their nests are so shaggy and untidy. Actually called Whitebrowned Sparrow-Weavers. Arrived at the sanctuary and spotted my boy straight away. I think I flew to be first in the queue. His name is Tusker and I have his footprint on my wall (the paper is made from elephant dung and has an ink print of his massive foot). Rain could not detract from one of my greatest dreams – to get so close to these magnificent, gentle giants. We were able to touch and feed Tusker. What a blessing that Tusker allowed us to experience this – Thank you Tusker. What must always be remembered that this sort of thing is not a right but a privilege!



Went back to the hotel and sat on the balcony, drinking coffee to warm up. This is when one of the most devastating events occurred (referred to previously at the mom and cub scene) – all of our photos (about 600) were accidentally deleted from the CF card, including the Lioness and Cub. I think Gavin and I were shell-shocked, not believing what had just happened. (ALWAYS back-up your photos, you do not want this to happen). These were to remain memories in our heart and on paper alone. The Flight of Angels Managed to secure a seat next to the pilot (think Gavin just pushed me forward, as I have never been in a helicopter). The foot section was totally clear, so one could get a real bird’s-eye, angel’s view. The helicopter flip took us over Mosi un Tunya – Vic Falls, each section of the falls has a different name – Devil’s Cataract, Main Falls, Angel Falls, Stanley’s Island and Horse-shoe Falls.

Flew over Vic Falls bridge, and it is only from this perspective, that one realises, just how high the Bungi is! The flight landed and clocked at exactly 11 minutes and 42 seconds, the flights can be no longer than 12 minutes. Return to the Boma Mr braveheart himself, my darling Gav, chomped two chewy, giant Mopani worms – selected by mwa – I sort of thought, at this point, if he was willing to do this for me, he was not such a bad “oke” The drumming was once again amazing; we both had our faces painted – Gav as a mighty Tsonga warrior. Surprise wake up call! Woken up in the middle of the night, by what I thought was an incorrect wake up call! To my absolute delight, Gav had arranged another Elephant outing (he was definitely scoring points) Hardly waited and was first in line to get on Domo – (the Elephants alternate and are rested between rides at least a day at a time). It is amazing how different their personalities are! Domo loves to stop and eat but definitely was not going to let any of the others ahead, as he felt he was the leader. One feels so safe as the Elephant are so sure-footed. 

Domo – the Elephant Gav and I were given the opportunity to really interact with this cheeky and confident boy! He has such wise eyes with long eye-lashes. His tongue and inner lips are so soft – yes I did put my whole hand on his tongue – he was quite cool about this. We then wanted to sit on his knee and have a ”snap” taken, he gave us a gentle nudge as if to say – “hey dudes, one at a time” All the Elephant are named after their care giver or the area in which they are found.



Epilogue This may be the end of this adventure, but the beginning of many others, as we have developed such a passion for Africa and God’s creations.